Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Dr. S. and I travelled down to Drigg one night. We breakfasted there
early and walked the twelve miles to Wastdale, halting only for a
plunge into cold Wastwater. After the manner of our kind, we inquired
at once for the Climbing Book, to learn the latest news from the Fells.
The ‘Pall Mall Budget’ article of June 5, 1890, on the Needle, had been
inserted, and we read how it might be vanquished. In the afternoon we
worked our way up to the Napes. Being the more enthusiastic, I found
the Needle first, and was breathless on the top of the crack when Dr.
S. arrived. He threw a rope up from the small platform (seen at the
bottom of the picture facing page 168) and came after me. The crack
up the face seemed difficult that first time; most people find it so.
The first movement obliquely up to the left is easy, but the next part
is a trifle too safe for the new comer. He gets his left thigh almost
hopelessly jammed into the crack, and can move neither up nor down. The
best plan is to work more with the left foot and knee in the crack,
both hands on the edge of the leaf of rock, and the right leg getting
general support by pressure outside, until the most constricted bit
half-way up is passed. Then the leaf of rock can be swarmed up with
much greater ease, and the climber soon finds himself looking down the
other side of the crack.
From here the route for ten feet is directly up the right edge. The
holds are not numerous, but good enough when the rocks are dry, and
we find ourselves on a platform or shoulder, very conspicuous in most
aspects of the pinnacle, that serves as an excellent take-off for the
last struggle. The terrors of the crack often scare off people from the
final piece. They almost did our little party. I found my watch-chain
broken--some links still remain in the heart of the Needle--and my
watch badly dented. The ‘Pall Mall’ had promised us that the last bit
was the worst, and we thought for a moment that a little preliminary
training for a few days would be the correct thing. However, I took off
my boots, for they had no nails, and, standing on a shoulder of Dr.
S;, stepped on to the right end of the ledge on which the top block
rests. This corner is difficult to climb alone and exceedingly daring
work, for the climber drags his body on to it over a sheer drop of a
hundred feet, and feels no certainty of safety till he is up. It is
like climbing on a narrow mantelshelf five feet high, that is only just
wide enough to allow standing room. An ice-axe offers a useful take-off
in the absence of a sufficiently responsible shoulder. The disposition
of one’s centre of gravity must be carefully considered, and there is a
sense of alternate peril and safety in inspiration and expiration. Once
on the ledge the game was evidently in our hands, and traversing along
it to the left I found a rounded boss of rock eighteen inches higher
that offered good hold for both feet. Then the left was brought well
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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