Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
up to a little ledge nearly an inch wide, the right hand gripped the
right edge of the boulder, and on straightening out the top edge could
be grasped. An arm pull was helped by sundry roughnesses for the toes,
and I sprawled half across the top triumphantly. In a couple of minutes
Dr. S. was by my side. We had no intention of climbing higher that day,
and willingly spent half an hour in examining the routes of the Napes’
ridges, two of which are seen to advantage from this spot.
We descended without serious difficulty, Dr. S. going first. I
half decided to fix our rope round the top block and use it for my
own descent, but it would have been an awkward matter to detach it
afterwards. Moreover, others had not found a fixed rope necessary,
and we did not wish to have anything to reproach ourselves about
subsequently. Dr. S. placed himself firmly on the shoulder, drawing in
the rope as it came down. If I fell it would have been on to the rocks
a few feet below him; he would experience no great shock, and could
easily hold me in. The descent was by the exact route of the ascent. On
reaching the crack again we re-adjusted our boots and slid down easily,
the remembrance of the leg-clasping constriction preventing our jamming
in the descent.
Two or three days later we took other men up the Needle. It was like
introducing an old friend. Though I had lost no respect for him, he was
easier to manage and offered new features for inspection.
The side of the Needle facing Lingmell exhibits an obvious alternative
route to the shoulder. The climbing is twelve or fifteen feet longer,
and rather more interesting. Facing the Needle at its foot with our
backs to Lingmell, we bear to the right into a square corner. We pass
up this on the left to a little level platform, reached best by an
armpull and a foothold well away on the buttress. I have seen good men
in much trouble on this corner. From here the route is straight up
the wall, with a halting-place ten feet higher in a huge slit on the
right. Then we climb the same cleft whose other side constitutes the
first part of the old route. This side, however, is wider, and contains
sundry jammed stones for convenience of passengers. The old route is
joined without difficulty, and the shoulder reached as before.
To effect the ascent of the top boulder without help it has always
appeared to me easier to start by standing on the small shelf just
under the left-hand end of the overhanging part--the shelf, in fact,
that is occupied by the sitting figure in the view facing page 168.
Practice on ordinary strong mantelshelves enables one to mount up this
corner with a certainty of success, the right hand being thrust into a
thin horizontal cleft rough enough to offer some friction for the back
of the hand as well as the palm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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