Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
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Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The chimney had been inspected by earlier climbers before I had ever
heard of it. The uninitiated of Wastdale often lament the secretiveness
of those who know where new things exist but who keep the knowledge
to themselves. Nestor is very reticent, and it is to be counted unto
him for righteousness that one Christmas week, after bad weather had
deprived us of all the ordinary climbing, he announced to the engineer
and me that there was a fascinating little thing, the fancy of an ‘off’
afternoon, lying conveniently close to the hotel, that he would show us
how to climb. I was lying on the billiard table just then thinking of
the different kinds of nothing. ‘Where is it?’ I asked. ‘In Tom Blue’
was the reply, and as this was yet but a name to me I wondered whether
Tom’s blueness measured his difficulty. The engineer was enthusiastic,
and declined to allow me to remain longer on the billiard table after
hearing this news. So in the gentle rain we marched out of the inn
that afternoon, and worked our way up the Styhead path till we had
passed the little spring that crosses it near the zig-zag. There we
saw the great rocks looming up on the left and were told that Tom Blue
awaited us there. The steep slope leading up to our climb was strewn
with huge boulders in chaotic confusion. We could either keep to
these or else make for an interesting crack in the Lower Kern Knotts
that stood directly in our way. To give us a foretaste we took to
the crack, finding as usual that its aspect from a distance gave no
clue to the wealth of useful detail in the shape of handholds. Then a
few yards more of mercurial skipping from boulder to boulder and we
reached a little terrace at the foot of the fine wall of the Upper Kern
Knotts. Since that day a huge cairn has grown up on this terrace at an
astonishing rate of development, to mark the beginning of the climb.
Perhaps by the date of publication of this volume the cairn will have
grown to rival the crags in height, the climb may be _viâ_ the cairn,
and Kern Knotts Chimney blocked up for ever. But for the sake of the
afternoon strollers from Wastdale we pray that this may not be. The
ascent is apparently in two portions, the lower one being the easier.
Actually there is a third pitch, the one of perhaps greatest intrinsic
difficulty, starting at the top of the split buttress and quite
unnoticeable from below. For this reason the climb must be regarded as
deceptive; it is one thing to struggle up the middle pitch with the
impression that the worst piece is being tackled, and quite another
to find a part of exceptional severity higher up. With that portion
impossible the only alternative is to descend again, and that does
not commend itself to many men who climb more for amusement than for
instruction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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