Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
To return to our narrative, we roped up with hopefulness and took to
the lowest chimney. The rocks were streaming with water which rapidly
discovered that its line of quickest descent was along our arms and
bodies, with only a slight delay at the boots while they were filling
up. The chimney was sufficiently well provided with small ledges, first
in the middle, then on the right-hand side, to enable us to draw up
easily. Then we worked round to the foot of the second pitch on a level
platform large enough for us all to rest ourselves comfortably. The
chimney now became much narrower, just sufficiently large to receive
the right thigh. With dry rocks the slight holds on the left wall now
facing us would have been ample for the pull up to the level of a
jammed stone in the crack; but they were now doubtful, and the obvious
course was to insert the right hand beneath the jammed stone and
utilize the grip it afforded. A loose block thus handled from within is
much less liable to come out than when held by its projecting parts.
In a climb where every jammed stone has been tested scores of times,
sundry small precautions such as this may be omitted; but a new route
should always be attacked with respectful caution, otherwise it may
exact a speedy vengeance, and promptly repulse the careless climber.
Just above the level of this useful block, which was immediately proved
to be safe enough, the footholds were a short way out of the crack on
the left wall, and were not particularly good in the heavy rain. The
next ten feet appeared to be very hard, for the only hold was to be by
the grip of the right thigh in the crack, and the next jammed stone
(on which a climber is standing in the opposite illustration) seemed
insecure. It was desirable to pass this without clinging to its outer
edges, and to test it when its dislodgment could do no harm. The motion
upwards in such a case is rather slow; the leg that does the work
must not be thrust too far into the recess, or else the business of
balancing is awkward, and the lift at each ‘stroke’ is insufficient.
The unemployed foot, as the skater calls it, can often help by a
momentary purchase on a minute ledge; even the width of an eighth of an
inch will suffice to steady the lift.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
KERN KNOTTS CHIMNEY]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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