Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The jammed stone offered a fair grip underneath, but the ledges were
now on the right wall, and the turn towards them was difficult under
the circumstances. If we had known that the stone would hold we could
have pulled straight up over it; but, out of desire to play the
scientific game, I swung round by the hands so that the left leg was
in the crack and the upper handholds visible just above my head. Next
a pull-up enabled me to get the left knee well on to the stone, and
finally to ensconce myself safely in the recess above it. Then our
Nestor came up in splendid form, but with some anxious thought for the
upper part of the climb. He asked me to mount up to the bridge above
and see whether the remainder were feasible, for if not the best plan
would be to descend at once. We disagreed over this, but being grateful
for the introduction to ‘Tom Blue,’ and not knowing that it was Kern
Knotts, I clambered up to please him while he was negotiating the
engineer’s rope, and committed myself to the opinion that it was ‘all
plain sailing from there.’
From the jammed stone which Nestor was now testing, the route was out
over the right face of the chimney, and round again to the left where
the top figure is shown in the photograph. A big block forms a bridge,
beneath which meet the two chimneys from the opposite faces of the
buttress.
We all reached the top of the bridge, and examined the final ridge that
springs up for another hundred feet. The angle is not an easy one at
first, and there is a scarcity of holds. The stylist who works only
with fingers and toes would have much difficulty in getting up, even in
dry weather. We one by one surmounted it by offering as many points of
contact as possible to the rocks. They were streaming with water, and
in a much more slippery condition than we should have preferred for a
first ascent. The leader accepted a shoulder at the start, but he felt
rather insecure till he was about twelve feet up, when a fine hold was
found on the right. From that point the ground is more broken, and easy
scrambling led to the top of the crags.
I have been told since then that it is easier to work round to the left
from the bridge, and then up to the right; but a recent visit convinces
me that both ways have their difficulties when the rocks are wet. Both
are safe in dry weather. The direct route up from the bridge has lately
been simplified by an artificial step, evidently cut with a chisel. It
is a pity the timid mason did not go round another way.
To reach the main shoulder of Gable from here we may keep on towards
Raven Crag and strike up a short chimney in its centre. It is not
difficult, but its exit from the top takes time if the climber attacks
the problem incautiously. Thence to the summit of Gable is a glorious
walk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account