Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
It was a bright sunny morning, hot and dusty. For a good part of the
way from Arolla to Haudères I chatted to Jones. We did not go very
fast on account of the damaged member of our party, about whom Jones
was very solicitous. He himself seemed very fit, and was full of life
and enthusiasm for his favourite passion. He chatted freely of all
his climbs, of our first meeting nine years before, of all that had
happened since, of frostbite on the Dom, and the remedy--sticking his
fingers into boiling glue--worse than the disease. His traverse of the
ice arête between the two peaks of the Lyskamm and his Easter ascent of
the Dent Blanche seemed to me to have made the deepest impression on
him of all his achievements in the mountains. He was rather inclined
to underrate his wonderful rock-work in North Wales and in the Lake
District, a department in which, in my opinion, he was really greatest,
though his feats of endurance in the Alps were something off the
common. He told me that his ambitions inclined towards a tour in the
Himalayas, if circumstances allowed of his realising that dream.
At Haudères we parted company. Hill and Jones, with their guides, who
met them at Haudères, turned up to Ferpècle; we went on to Evolena. If
my friend’s health permitted, I had arranged to see Jones in Zermatt on
Tuesday afternoon. Difficult as was the expedition he was undertaking,
the awful reality of the morrow never crossed my mind even as a
possibility. A stronger or more well-equipped party I had never seen
start on an expedition. It was about 12-30 when we all said good-bye.
At Evolena the doctor ordered our invalid a day or two of complete
rest. So on Monday morning the third member of our party, with his
guide, started for the Col de la Meina to return to his wife, whom he
had left in the Val des Bagnes, from which we had come. For the sake
of the walk I accompanied them to the top of the Col. About 9-15, just
before we lost sight of the west arête of the Dent Blanche, I searched
the arête with my field glasses to see if any trace of Jones and
Hill’s party could be detected. None of us could see anything, so we
concluded, as the mountain was in very good condition, that they had
probably already got to the top, and were then descending by the south
arête. But they were still on the arête, though we failed to see them
on the dark rocks. Had it been three-quarters of an hour later we might
actually have been witnesses of the accident.
On the top of the Col de la Meina we were caught by a storm of mist and
rain, blowing up from the west. I bade adieu to my friends and hastened
back to Evolena. That was the mist which caught Mr. Hill on the
gendarme in his descent after the accident and detained him 22 hours
alone on the great mountain.
But of the accident no one dreamed. No premonition, no presentiment,
troubled our thoughts. Monday and Tuesday passed quietly and
uneventfully for us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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