Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
A few feet up we reach the first obstacle, in the shape of a broken
waterfall altogether about thirty feet high. It is usual to take to
the steep grass on the left, a route that looks easier than it actually
is. When the soil is damp the earth comes away like sand, and there is
little reliability in the holds all the way up. We step with relief
into the bed of the gully again, and look up to see what the prospect
is. An easy slope leads towards a second waterfall, considerably
higher than the first. Ordinarily there is no chance of surmounting it
directly, but a way of avoiding it discloses itself as we approach. The
gully divides into two, the main portion being to the left, and a fine
branch passing up to a height of 150 feet on the right. We start by
climbing the first pitch in the branch gully--a narrow vertical corner
in the wall down which a vigorous spout of water jets like a hydrant.
There are a few ledges on the left side which enable us to avoid some
of the water, but if there has been much rain before our expedition it
is impossible to keep dry during the ascent.
It was here that I saw a sinful act of revenge that grieved me much
at the time. My companions had been with me up the Scawfell Pinnacle
by the Deep Ghyll route on the previous day, and one had kept the
others in painful attitudes on the cliff while he leisurely proceeded
to photograph us. The partner of my woes vowed vengeance, and exacted
it here on the Screes. His turn it was to manipulate the camera, and
his wicked malice prompted him to insist on taking a photograph when
his brother was half-way up the corner. We had given him the right of
choosing his subject and could not complain, especially as he was loud
in his praise of the view and in his grief at his brother’s cramped and
drenched condition. But he was in good humour for the rest of the day,
and that was worth paying for.
The position now is that a buttress separates us from the main gully.
We have to clamber a few feet up this, next along a shallow, sloping
scoop as far as it goes, and then traverse across to the head of the
big fall. The leader is not able to derive much help from the rope
in case of a slip, but it is as well for the second man to climb
thirty feet up the right wall of the branch gully, so as to be higher
than the pioneer. The buttress looks much broken from below, but the
general slope is to our disadvantage, and the final traverse is along
a crumbling ledge of earth and grass. Frost occasionally makes the
climbing easier, by binding the earth firmly to the rock.
The view across the lake from the top of the waterfall is very
beautiful. The rich dark green of the pines that grow down to the
water’s edge on the other side form a striking contrast to the gaunt
and barren walls of black rock that close in the view. Buckbarrow fills
up the background, the severity of its seamed precipices softened by
distance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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