Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The branch gully, it may here be mentioned, has never been climbed
throughout. It ends on the bastion at no great height above us, and is
probably not very stiff. I tried it one Christmas Day with Messrs.
Robinson and Fowler, but we rose no higher than the little notch on the
thin curtain of rock that forms its right boundary. We got soaked in
the little waterfall, and the bitter cold drove us back unsuccessful.
We had difficulties with the awkward chimney above the narrow corner.
Keeping up the main gully, an easy stretch takes us to the third pitch.
It is a water-slide, and we must hurry up quickly if dryness is still
any consideration. The best way is on the left. There are many holds
under the water, and our efforts to prevent its trickling down our arms
will be futile if we get flurried by nasty remarks from those behind.
Almost before we can gain breath again we are confronted by a similar
difficulty. The water-slide here is taken first on the right, until a
slanting crack leads across to the other side. The climbing is rather
stiff near the top, and careful search should be made for the safest
footholds.
The fifth pitch that we now approach is generally regarded as the
hardest. It is undoubtedly difficult when taken by the route first
discovered. A long wet slope of rock divides the gully into two parts.
On the right there seems little likelihood of finding a way up. The
great overhanging slabs are fifty feet high, and water is continually
pouring down them. On the left the chance of success is greater. A
slanting crack lies between the rock slope and the side wall. It leads
straight up to a hole underneath a huge overhanging boulder that
dominates the pitch. There we can see a choice of route. The way first
adopted is to wriggle up the chimney between the boulder and the left
wall; but it is preferable to crawl out of the hole to the right and
make an exit over rounded boulders to the top of the obstacle. The
chimney is extremely stiff, the main difficulty being to make a start
from the hole. If the cave had a level bottom the difficulties would
be much moderated. There are no holds on the boulder itself and very
few on the side wall, but those few make it worth while starting with
the face to the wall. Six feet higher, when the climber is in the most
exposed situation, he must turn half round and use both sides of the
chimney. If the leader cannot get into the crack unassisted, it is
a good plan for the second to hitch himself to a jammed boulder at
the back of the cave and proffer a shoulder as a take-off. The first
explorers had ice to contend against and proceeded in a still more
cautious manner, all three combining their strength at the awkward
corner. I have three times seen men swing off on the rope when half
way up the chimney, and am bound to admit that there is too much
touch-and-go for the way to suit any but very strong climbers. The
easier way out of the hole--first taken, I think, by Messrs. Whitaker
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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