Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The gully is narrow at first. Its walls are red in colour, and a film
of water generally covers them. The holds are not particularly good,
and the steepness of the gully renders extreme caution necessary.
Both walls are used, and our advance is after the fashion of a man
on a ladder. Then the gully widens, and the difficulties come in
successive steps till a great overhanging boulder blocks the direct
ascent. Here the right wall is sufficiently broken to offer a method
of circumventing the pitch, but in wet weather the place is bad.
Just above this I found a stick, conclusive evidence to the simple
mind that the hard bit of the Great Gully was now being approached.
It looked as though it had been there for years. The view backwards
was most impressive, the tarn appearing almost beneath my feet. The
second obstacle was now to be considered. The gully narrowed to a thin
vertical corner plastered over with wet green moss. The take-off was
earthy and disagreeably loose. The only holds were on the right wall
near the corner, and were few and far between. I hesitated below for a
long time, scarcely knowing how best to start operations. A big jammed
stone came away in my hands as I made a first attempt, and crashed down
the gully from side to side. At last I rammed the left knee tentatively
into the wet corner, and edged up a few feet with the aid of sundry
slight supports for the right foot. Ten feet higher an excellent
hold was reached with the hand, and the chief trouble was over. Huge
boulders were piled overhead confusedly, but they gave plenty of
opportunities, and no longer had the smooth, almost shiny surface that
characterized the rocks further down. The top of the gully was reached
three quarters of an hour after starting. It was half-past five, and
snow was beginning to fall; I thought it desirable to hurry, and a
steady trot westwards round the head of Langdale Combe and the further
side of Black Crags brought me in three miles to the path at the Angle
Tarn and the foot of the up-grade towards Esk Hause. Thence a steady
two hours’ walk in the dark brought me safely to Wastdale, in happy
ignorance of the fact that I had only visited the Little Gully. But to
this day I think it as hard as its neighbour.
THE GREAT GULLY.--Shortly after Easter, 1896, I begged some
friends to come over and climb the Great Gully with me. It was my
last day at Wastdale; I was due at Coniston the same evening, and the
Langdale Pikes offered a pleasanter walk to the Old Man district than
is given by the Eskdale and Cockley Beck route. My friends stipulated
that we should call a halt at Kern Knotts on the way out and attempt
the ‘crack.’ This we managed with expedition, and continued the journey
betimes over the Styhead and Esk Hause.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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