Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The three miles from Angle Tarn to Pavey Ark are rather tedious, though
the view of Bowfell and of Pike of Stickle relieves the monotony. It
is a wild open moor that we have to cross, and its gentle slope is
very deceptive. For a long time the sky-line in front of us, after
rounding Langdale Combe at the top of the Stake Pass, recedes as we
advance, and it is not till the grassy ridge of Thunacar Knott is
gained that we begin to see the upper crags of Pavey Ark. Nevertheless
it is much better to approach the crags in this way from the Wastdale
direction than to descend first towards Dungeon Ghyll. The great rocks
strewn about the crest of the cliff are most singular in character.
Their surface is as rough as that of the magnesian limestone in the
Dolomites. If only the whole face of Pavey Ark were of this formation
we should have a fine opportunity for practice with the scarpetti or
rope-soled shoes used by the Tyrolese rock-climbers.
We descended towards the tarn by an easy slope between the cliff and
the north-east ridge of Harrison Stickle. Then at the level of the base
of the crags we crossed a water-course, and traversed over the scree
to the foot of the Great Gully, passing the entrance to the other on
our way. The remarks already made, and reference to the diagram on page
203, will perhaps give sufficient indication of the place at which we
now found ourselves. In misty weather the locality can be identified by
the branch gully to the left, that starts at once and loses itself 200
feet higher up.
The lower part of the climb very much resembles the corresponding
portion in the other gully. The side walls are close together, the
rock is steep, and hand-and-foot scrambling fairly continuous for
about 150 feet. When the rocks are wet some special care is necessary
at a place thirty feet from the starting-point. Then comes the first
pitch, a remarkably fine piece of rock scenery. An enormous boulder
completely blocks the way, projecting at least fifteen feet at its
upper part. The left wall is practically hopeless, but the other side
shows a series of small ledges that enable the climber to work up to
the flat corner between the boulder and the right wall. Formerly this
bit was grassy. Only a few small tufts now remain, and the holds are
therefore more obvious. A pleasanter way lies through the cave and out
by a narrow tunnel in the roof to the same flat corner, which is just
discernible from below. That way our party followed. The dripping water
from the roof was a trifle unpleasant sometimes, but there was a great
sense of security in adopting the through route. The tunnel required
careful going until one’s eyes got accustomed to the darkness. Then the
handholds could be distinguished and the platform reached in safety.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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