Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
We are near the point where the gully opens out considerably, sending
a branch up on the right. But before that we have to mount two small
pitches, the first taken straight up, the second by either right or
left wall.
The branch exit on the right has no serious difficulties, but it
abounds in loose holds that the climber may find hard to avoid. It
leads on to the great middle buttress of Doe Crag, above all its
dangerous parts, and within easy access of the summit. The direct
ascent of the gully is interesting only at the last step, where a
narrow chimney must be passed. Its right boundary is a long smooth
slab, unusually deficient in holds. There are three or four wedged
stones and the pitch is often wet, but by keeping close into the
chimney and working up the right wall the trouble may be overcome. It
is always possible, of course, to descend a little and climb out of the
gully on the right.
DOE CRAG CENTRAL CHIMNEY.--This climb is known to very few
people. Many are aware in a vague manner that there is splendid
climbing on the great buttress of Doe Crag, but only one or two
cragsmen have learnt where to go for it. So far as my own experience
is concerned it was almost a matter of accident that brought me soon
after Easter, 1897, to the foot of the Central Chimney. The previous
day had been spent with Messrs. George and Ashley Abraham on Lliwedd,
in the Snowdon district, and a tiresome cross-country night journey
to Coniston had not tended to put the keenest edge on my hunger for
adventure. My companion, Mr. Godfrey Ellis, and I were really intent on
ascending by the ‘intermediate gully of terrific aspect,’ down which
Mr. Haskett Smith had climbed in 1888. The Central Chimney certainly
looked terrific, more so than anything else we could find about there.
It was also reasonably intermediate, and we came to the conclusion that
our gully was found. Later investigation showed that we had made a
mistake, for Haskett Smith’s chimney is at the north end of the crags.
The Central Chimney attracted the attention of Mr. Slingsby in 1887,
but apparently ours was the first ascent. Messrs. Broadrick have been
up it since, and I have been advised by one of their party that the top
of the chief difficulty is dangerously loose.
We had heavy rücksacks to carry over to Wastdale that day, and decided
to leave them at the foot of the climb, rather than suffer the
inconvenience of dragging them up with us. We had eighty feet of rope,
and needed it all near the top.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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