Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Our work started easily. Three obvious courses led in about thirty feet
to a broad, grassy platform, from which the chimney made its proper
beginning. Each of the three ways involved scrambling; they started
a few feet to the left of the lowest part of the crags, and formed
between them a very fair presentment of a gully entrance. But a glance
upwards showed that, for some distance at least, we should have very
little of the nature of a gully to guide us. From the platform sprang
up the vertical wall that gives the central buttress its appearance
of inaccessibility, almost unrelieved for several hundred feet. Our
chimney commenced as a thin crack in the wall from the platform, only
large enough for a hand to be thrust in, and so sharp-edged that
one’s fingers were badly cut in climbing the first five yards. Then
the crack seemed to widen gradually until from below it appeared
sufficiently broad for wedging. Appearances would have been comforting
but for the curious absence of retaining wall on the right-hand side
of the crack. The left was excellent; on that side the rock stood out
from the corner and formed the finest part of the great buttress. But
the right wall was out clean away, leaving smooth slabs that were sure
to give trouble when we should find the chimney too shallow for further
progress.
I started up the thin crack, and found the strain very severe on the
arms. When it became wide enough to support a knee it was possible
to halt and prospect a little. The next ten feet up the crack were
obviously most difficult, and a glance at the north side showed that it
would have been easier to work up the right wall for twenty feet from
the platform before traversing into the crack again. Ellis suggested
that he should come up to my level by means of a slight fissure in
the right wall, and steadied by the rope that I had flung over a
small projection some six feet above his head, he managed to reach a
shaky, sloping ledge of grass, and then to manœuvre the rope for my
own passage to the same resting-place. We next worked upwards into the
chimney, and kept close in it for twenty feet or so. There were good
holds on the right until some small boulders and _débris_ formed a
little platform, over the edge of which we were able to pull ourselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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