Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE INTERMEDIATE GULLY.--We had a glorious afternoon for this
climb. The previous night had brought us from town to Coniston, and
we meant to give ourselves an easy day. But fearing that the weather
might change we were tempted to seize the opportunity and start earnest
business at once. Identifying the gully as the first to the right of
the longest buttress of the crags, we entered it and began scrambling
immediately. After five minutes of ‘staircase’ work, using both sides
of the gully, we came to a point where the left wall overhung a little
and the gully closed in. A flank movement was then effected on the
right, over steep rocks and unreliable grass ledges, returning by a
narrow traverse into the gully at a point forty feet higher. The second
man came straight up, finding two pitches confronting him, both of
which he thought we could have taken directly if time had allowed us
to risk an attempt. We kept in the ghyll for the next two pitches,
both of them fairly simple. A fine flat stone at the top of the second
offered a good standpoint for the inspection of the overhanging wall
that now faced us. The gully had shrunk again into the merest crack in
the wall. My friend called it the extreme pitch of refinement. On our
left a smooth right-angled corner that probably thought itself a branch
gully led up to the ridge separating us from the Central Chimney. Again
it seemed desirable to take to the right by a course that was at any
rate feasible, although it took us away from our direct line of ascent.
After fifteen feet of traverse the buttress looked accessible, but
recollecting the poor holds that we had encountered in a corresponding
situation lower down, we went further away still, descending slightly
to a level platform where the leader could be belayed during his direct
ascent of the wall. Fortunately the rocks were quite dry, as otherwise
the work that followed would have been risky. At first the handholds
were unsafe, but in ten feet our industrious cleaning away of the grass
and earth disclosed an excellent cleft in the wall, safe and sound.
Thence the way was pleasanter, swinging upwards towards the left again
by immovable rockholds. We had several yards of a narrow ledge tilted
upwards at 30° before entering our gully again, and arrived in it just
below a little pitch of the type that tries the elbow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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