Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Great caution was now needed. Not that the climbing was difficult or
dangerous, but the gully had dwindled into little more than a slight
indentation in a vertical wall, and each man had to move with the
utmost deliberation. Holds were numerous, generally better on the left
wall, but they were all rather wet. Soon we were engaged in a violent
struggle with a small angular jammed block that barred our way. It
seemed loose at first, but we proved its stability that afternoon by
many minutes’ hauling and wrenching from below and above. The chief
difficulty was to get the shoulders firmly fixed between the sides
of the cleft above the jammed stone; with only the block to hold
and no rest for the feet this manœuvre was very awkward to perform.
Above this a few steps led to a narrow cave, which we climbed by its
right edge and found to be a trying piece of arm work. Here the gully
expanded into a large scree-bedded ravine with only two moderately easy
obstacles between us and the top of the crag. To our left we could see
the ledge that marks the end of the Central Chimney. Our own gully,
looking backwards, seemed to be a vertical plunge straight down to the
bottom, and as usual we caught ourselves wondering whether anything
else could be called difficult after this.
We reached the summit in two hours from the start, and then skirting
the lower edge of the crags from Goat’s Hause, we made note of each
gully as we passed its foot. An easy scree shoot, followed by a
buttress set back at a gentle angle, but with splendid practice on it;
the North Gully with its awe-inspiring middle pitch like the great
obstacle in Moss Ghyll; a branch gully leading into the North Gully; a
second branch, looking rather interesting but lacking definition higher
up; the Easter Gully with its double centre portion; the Intermediate
Gully; the Central Chimney; and the Great Gully.
THE EASTER GULLY.--The same party came two days later to
examine this climb. The weather was very unsettled, and we were forced
to the conclusion that the main central chimney was too wet to be
approachable. The scrambling was easy up to the cave; then we worked up
the vertical left wall by diminutive ledges till the level of the cave
stone was ours, whereupon an awkward bit of traverse brought us safely
out of the difficulty. We were in the great hollow, and were astonished
to find that in addition to the main chimneys on the right and left
centre, there were splendid branch gullies up to the ridges on either
side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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