Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
‘But the pace soon slackened. We halted on the edge of the glacier,
roped in fours, and began to search gingerly for a way through the
terrific ice-fall of the glacier. We were mounting by the old approach
to the Dent Blanche, up the ice-fall, now long since abandoned. The
glacier was, of course, quite changed since any of these guides had
last visited it. The ice was split and rent into every conceivable
shape. We were surrounded with leaning towers of ice, threatening at
any moment to fall on us and crush us.
‘A great pile of seracs on the Northern ice-fall, across the ridge,
fell with a mighty crash. Away to the right we could hear the thunder
of avalanches. But never for a moment did the guides hesitate. Steadily
and unflinchingly they threaded their way between the menacing seracs.
Crossing broken fragments of ice, balancing between profound crevasses,
not thwarted but ever searching for a way. At last we suddenly struck
upon the tracks of Jones’ party away to the North side of the glacier
close to the rocks. There we scrambled up, half by the rocks and half
by the ice, and then at last, after many hours, found ourselves on the
great plateau beneath the long snow couloir running down from the West
Ridge. There, if anywhere, they were likely to be. And there, high up
among the rocks, we could just see, with the aid of a good telescope,
some dark objects which were not rocks.
‘“There are our friends,” said the guides.
‘Yes, there was no doubt of it. It was now ten o’clock and the sky had
cleared. A party was formed, and mounted the rocks to fetch the bodies.
As they climbed, suddenly another army of men appeared below us, above
the ice-fall, advancing swiftly. They were the party of the Zermatt
Guides. They came on unroped, climbing fast. It was a magnificent sight
to see this troop of giants in their own element, a troop of equals,
masters of peril. They halted below the rocks and sent up another small
band to join the Evolena Guides. There was a long pause, and then they
all began to descend, bringing the bodies.
‘I will draw a veil over what we found. Men cannot fall many thousands
of feet and lie in artistic attitudes.... But it was four o’clock
before the Bricolla hut was reached, and darkness had fallen before the
bodies came to Haudères. The Zermatt Guides were out for twenty-four
hours, and the Evolena Guides over twenty.’
Mr. W. R. Rickmers, a German resident in England, and a member of the
Alpine Club, sends the following to the _Alpine Journal_:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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