Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
consequence of our fixed intention to force a route directly upwards
without any traversing away on to the right wall of the gully. Also,
we were relieved of the necessity of avoiding water, because it fell
too diffusely to be avoided, and so small an area was left to any of us
that could be affected seriously by further saturation. The first part
of the pitch was perfectly simple. We could employ holds on either side
and clamber up to a platform made by an un-jammed stone with rounded
corners that had been caught in the cleft. It was safe enough for our
purposes, and two men could lodge themselves conveniently above it.
Straight up overhead was a formidable chimney that looked feasible in
its upper portion but impossible to reach directly from below. A long
block of rock twenty feet high, possibly part of the living mountain,
prevented a passage up the pitch to the immediate right of the
chimney; but between the smooth slabs of wet rock that formed the right
wall of the gully and this long boulder a narrow crack wound its way up
to Robinson’s cave, and it occurred to all of us simultaneously that
the crack might be negotiated and the awkward slab-traverse thereby
avoided. But the crack was as nothing to begin with, and from our
rickety platform we could obtain but scanty notion of its safety higher
up. I suggested advancing a little to prospect, craving a shoulder to
start from, and a steadying hand for my completer confidence on the
doubtful little ledges that we were calling footholds. The first ten
feet went very well, but although I found the crack useful for the
left knee, it was unable to accept the responsibility of my complete
stability. I sang out for another steadying hand, and my most admirable
second clambered on to the shoulders of the last man without a moment’s
hesitation. They plastered themselves flat against the slab, and I felt
my right foot cease its uncanny trembling as the outstretched hand held
it firmly in the niche it longed to use. This was downright luxury, and
in my sense of security there stole a moment’s shame at the thought of
so much dependence on the others. But there! in climbing as in football
the combination is everything in the highest developments of the game,
and though success may now and again be due to the unaided efforts of
one man, the full satisfaction that should follow victory will only be
felt by the whole party when all have contributed something to the
manœuvring. Be it remembered that in crag-climbing two heads are better
than one, even if the second head is only used as a foothold. But
there we were, three links in a chain that reached from the platform
to the widest part of the crack that was to lead us to the cave. The
position was not to be dwelt upon, and I hastened to relieve the others
of their common burden. In the crack and at arm’s length above me was
a well-secured angular stone round which the rope could be passed.
Using it as a hold I was able to quit the precarious foothold on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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