Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
right and thrust the left knee well into the crack. The position was
one that could admit of no slip, the leg being sufficient to hold the
body well in; and before quitting that favoured spot I untied the rope
and slipped the free end through the hole at the back of the jammed
stone before tying on again. The others had descended by this time to
the platform and were taking in all the slack. Whatever the difficulty
of the few remaining moves to the cave, I was insured against a big
fall and could trust to the belaying of the little angular block that
had so neatly adjusted itself to our needs. As a matter of fact the
precaution was scarcely necessary, though eminently proper under the
circumstances. The ledges above me were good and firm, and with the
rope gently paid out from below I reached the cave without more trouble.
The floor was sloping; but a comfortable and reposeful attitude could
be indulged in, well at the back, far from the dripping eaves of the
cave. But I had committed an error of judgment with the rope, threading
the hole from above the jammed stone instead of from below, before
tying the bowline round my waist. At the time the importance of that
consideration had not occurred to me, but now in my ease, hauling up
the slack between myself and the second, I felt a sudden jerk. The
rope was wrapped completely round the jammed stone, whose angularity,
that had before commended itself to the hands, now introduced so much
friction that the rope would no longer slip freely round it. We were
perplexed for a while, till our enterprising middleman, who had many
times before offered a key to our difficulties, proposed climbing up
as a leader, with the second rope attached to his waist, and the fixed
rope above him used for steadying purposes whenever necessary. We knew
that the jammed stone that fixed the upper rope could not be dislodged
easily, and indeed I was able to hold on to my end and oppose any
dangerous leverage. He climbed up with every confidence, and reached
the crack safely. Then, repeating my movement with the left leg, he
held on while disentangling my rope, tying himself to its lower end as
soon as the complications were unravelled. A few moments more gave me a
companion in the cave, and built, as it was, for two persons only, he
mildly suggested my withdrawal for the benefit of the third man. Thence
our method of advance was practically identical with Robinson’s. We had
a little walk of six feet over towards the left wall of the gully, by
ledges that lay on the very verge of a sheer drop of eighty feet to the
foot of the pitch. Then the ascent was continued by a narrow crack that
commenced in a somewhat sensational manner, not so much by reason of
its difficulty as by the feeling of nothingness to fall back upon in
case of a slip. The second was at my heels, and he was firmly braced up
by the sole remaining tenant of the cave. Lifting the left leg as high
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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