Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
_a_ Shamrock Gully.
_b_ Great Pitch in _a_.
_c_ Great Bridge.
_d_ Shamrock Chimney.
_e_ Walker’s Gully.
_f_ Savage Gully.
_g_ The Nose.
_h_ Easy route, North Climb.
_k_ Cave Pitch.
_l_ Stomach-traverse.
_m_ Split-block.
_n_ The Strid.
_p_ The Hand-traverse.
_q_ The Buttress-route.
_r_ The Ordinary route.
_s_ The Low Man.
_t_ The High Man.
_u_ The Great Chimney.
_v_ Pisgah.]
From below, the precipice is seen to be divided into two parts by a
long, black chimney. This is Walker’s Gully, named after the young man
who fell there in 1883. Its head is the point of convergence of
sundry lines of scree from the upper fell. It suggests a funnel cut
down along its centre-line, and scree frequently slides down the sides
of the funnel and into the gully. This no doubt is the chief reason why
Walker’s Gully has never been climbed until recently, when snow and
frost diminished the risk from this cause. It would prove difficult
under any conditions, and the risk of a battery of stones from above is
too heavy a handicap for the cautious climber.
The Pillar Rock itself is on the right of the gully, in our view from
below. The crag on the left is considerably lower, and in fact scarcely
rises high enough over the head of the gully to be visible from above.
But from the east it presents an imposing appearance. Its outline
partly suppresses that of the higher crag beyond, partly combines with
it, audit is often mistaken for the actual Pillar Rock. Hence the name
Sham-rock by which it has been known since 1882. It is a mere walk to
reach the summit from the Pillar Fell. The climbing on the Shamrock
is not quite so good as that on the neighbouring crag, but it cannot
well be neglected. On the eastern side is the well-known Shamrock
Gully, a magnificent looking cleft in the rocks, finishing with a huge
V-shaped notch at the summit. A natural arch spans the gully
half-way up, and an obstacle some few feet higher makes a pitch of
unusual severity--‘one of the stiffest pitches in all Cumberland.’ It
was first climbed by Mr. Geoffrey Hastings’ party in March, 1887, when
a bank of snow below the pitch gave a little help. In December, 1890,
the climb was repeated by a party with the same leader, without the aid
of snow, and since that date various ascents have been made with and
without snow. Among others a new route over the obstacle was effected
in December, 1896, by the writer and three friends. It is probable that
the pitch turns back fifty per cent. of the people who essay to climb
it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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