Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
On the same eastern face, a few yards further away to the north, is the
Shamrock Chimney, a thin crack running somewhat irregularly upwards
to the summit ridge. The credit of the first ascent belongs to Mr.
John Robinson, whose keen eye and sound judgment made the ascent an
accomplished fact, on September 23, 1894, within a few days of his
discovery of the chimney. Shortly afterwards Robinson showed me the
route, and I was convinced at once that in difficulty and extreme
interest it was far superior to the Shamrock Gully, and equal to the
best climbing on the Pillar Rock. The third ascent was made by Dr.
Lawrence in April, 1895. Not many parties have been up it as yet, and I
am hoping that the full account of its details here supplied will tempt
others to attack it.
I have said that the Pillar Rock lies to the right of Walker’s Gully
when viewed from below. It is bounded on the other or western side by a
broad hollow in the fell, down which a slender stream flows without
any abrupt change of level till the foot of the precipice is reached.
There the ‘Great’ waterfall disturbs the even tenor of its way, and is
said to offer a formidable obstruction to our approach of the west face
from below.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE EAST FACE OF THE PILLAR ROCK]
From the Shamrock side we can get the best idea of the shape of the
Rock. We have first the Pisgah rising out of the upper fellside, a
pinnacle easily accessible and only forty or fifty feet high. Then
to the right comes the actual Pillar Rock, the ‘High Man,’ separated
from Pisgah by a narrow vertical cleft, the ‘Jordan,’ that renders the
ascent from Pisgah almost an impossibility. At the Jordan two gullies
meet; one up the east side, short and easy, the other up the west side,
longer and more difficult.
The outline of the rock is marked by a notch to the right of the
summit, where the Great Chimney finishes, and a little further
northwards it shows a sudden drop to the level of the Low Man, the
immense buttress that from below hides the true summit altogether. A
cairn has been erected on the top of this buttress, and the outline to
the right of this falls in one vertical drop of 400 feet to the foot
of the rock. This is the great north wall. It is supported at the base
by a minor buttress, the ‘Nose,’ that stretches across the full width
of the north wall, and along the top of which, immediately below the
precipice, an easy terrace takes us across to the Great Waterfall
from a point near the foot of Walker’s Gully. From the eastern end of
the traverse rises the Savage Gully, a well-marked cleft with sundry
branches, reaching to the top of the Low Man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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