Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The Pillar Rock was first climbed by an Ennerdale cooper named
Atkinson, who in 1826 ascended by the west side. The ‘slab-and-notch’
route on the east side, starting from the upper screes above Walker’s
Gully, was devised by Messrs. Conybeare and A. J. Butler in 1863,
though it would seem that the same side was successfully attacked a
year or two before. Matthew Barnes, a Keswick guide, found a route
across the eastern face to the Low Man, and thence back along the
summit ridge to the highest point. He was climbing with Mr. Graves, of
Manchester. Mr. W. P. Haskett Smith found in 1882 a direct way up to
the High Man from the Jordan, and a second route straight up the wall
a few yards to the east of the first. Two years later he reached the
summit by a particularly hazardous course still further to the east,
passing up close to the buttress whose lower end marks the start of the
‘slab-and-notch’ route. In the same year he made the first ascent by
the Great Chimney on the east side. Mr. Haskett Smith named the first
three routes the ‘West Jordan,’ the ‘Central Jordan,’ and the ‘East
Jordan’ climbs respectively; the latter route is never undertaken, and
the other two are often termed the ‘Left Pisgah’ and ‘Right Pisgah.’
For many years Mr. Haskett Smith made visits to the north face,
endeavouring to reach the summit of the Low Man from the easy ledge at
its foot. On the right his course was limited by the almost seamless
wall of rock that gives the Pillar Rock its appearance of hopeless
inaccessibility from Ennerdale. On the left the Savage Gully cut off
all chance of traversing to the eastern side of the rock. The space
between was strictly limited, and it narrowed as he climbed higher.
Within thirty feet of an easy scree gully that obviously led to the
summit of the Low Man, the only available course had dwindled down to a
slender rib of rock in a dangerously exposed situation, much too risky
to attack without guarantee of its feasibility.
In 1891 this climber, with Messrs. Hastings and Slingsby, succeeded
at last in finding a way of descending into the Savage Gully at that
point. Their leader then mounted its left wall and worked easily across
to the foot of the scree gully. The others followed, and the ‘long
climb’ up the Pillar Rock became an accomplished fact. No published
detailed description of the route is known to the writer.
SHAMROCK GULLY.--This is rather an unpleasant climb for those
who dislike loose stones. The bed of the gully is very steep and
narrow. It is followed straight up the centre, by using horizontal
shelves on either side that now and again flake off in a most
unexpected way. Extreme care is necessary on the part of the leader,
for his followers cannot avoid any fragments that he may dislodge.
The climbing is otherwise easy, and very little distance should exist
between the separate members of the party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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