Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
On the western side the rock appears much more formidable. The chimney
up to the Jordan looks black, and its crest is overhanging. The
wall of the High Man itself is built up with long slabs of smooth
rock, broken only by the smallest grass ledges, and its difficulties
appear to increase near the summit. This side of the Low Man looks as
inaccessible as the great north wall. Nevertheless a series of short
gullies starting from the foot of the High Man lead obliquely up
towards the left and offer a very easy route to the southern end of the
Low Man, whence to the summit the climbing is but moderately difficult.
The best ways of reaching the Pillar Rock are given in full detail
by Mr. Haskett Smith. It will here be sufficient to remark that from
Wastdale the usual course followed is to ascend by the path towards
Black Sail Pass until about ten minutes beyond Gatherstone Beck, then
to make for the ridge on the left leading over Looking Stead and up to
the summit of Pillar Fell. Thence a descent of 450 feet in a northerly
direction brings us to the Pillar Rock. Sometimes Mosedale is followed
straight up, and the steep slope climbed that leads to Windy Gap.
Thence the ridge to the right takes us in twenty minutes of easy
going to the summit of the Pillar Fell. Both these routes involve an
unnecessary ascent of 450 feet, and the ‘High-Level Route’ was designed
to avoid this waste of time and energy. Looking Stead is reached as
before from Gatherstone Beck, and the wire fence followed up for a few
minutes as far as the head of Green Cove. Here a cairn marks the spot
where a rough path starts down the cove. We descend only fifty feet or
so, and then turn round to the left and skirt along the north-east side
of the fell. It is unsafe to attempt the traverse for the first time in
a mist, but with clear weather the various cairns that mark successive
points on the route can be easily discerned, and a half-hour’s walk
brings us to the wide scree gully running down by the eastern side of
the Shamrock. To reach the foot of the Pillar Rock is a simple matter.
The photograph facing page 271 was taken across this scree, and it
will be seen that the route down to the Nose is only a walk round the
foot of the Shamrock. A broad, sloping corridor in the lee of a steep
rock-wall further up the fellside, enables us to steer clear of the
Shamrock cliffs and to reach their head without any hand-and-foot
scrambling. Thence across the scree descending to Walker’s Gully we see
Pisgah and the High Man, and with care we can now make the traverse to
the foot of the Jordan Gully. There we are in a position to start any
of the ordinary short climbs on the Pillar Rock. The west route can be
reached by turning Pisgah on the left and descending the west scree
for 300 feet. The long climbs up the north face are started from the
Nose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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