Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
PILLAR ROCK, JORDAN CLIMBS.--Very easy scrambling from the
upper fell will bring the climber to the summit of Pisgah. There
is a short chimney on the east side that leads to the same spot; it
is easy to enter, but the exit at the top is very stiff. The view
of the near wall of the High Man is interesting, and there is ample
opportunity for studying the two direct climbs before descending to
the gap. They are both difficult, but the rocks are so much scratched
by nailed boots that the difficulty does not consist in finding the
way up. It is generally supposed to be impossible to descend into the
gap from Pisgah, but inspection will show that there is a series of
small ledges a little to the west, down which a safe passage can be
effected. The Left Pisgah route starts up at once from the _col_. The
holds are only moderately good for the first thirty feet, and fail to
give satisfaction when wet or icy. Next it is possible to force the
body into a narrow crack, and for a little while the climber can cease
his strugglings and rest himself. Above this the rock is more broken
and the holds are better. A thin leaf of rock is crossed and a downward
view obtained of the Right Pisgah final chimney. Then the slope is
eased off, and the cairn on the High Man is but a couple of yards away.
The Right Pisgah route is generally started low down the East Jordan
Gully. This offers pleasant hand-and-foot work, but no difficulty
whatever up to the Jordan. But before reaching the gap a square recess
on the right is entered, and then a passage is made over smooth rocks
to a clean-cut right-angled corner forty feet high on the south-east
side of the High Man. It is just possible to traverse round from the
Jordan to the top of the square recess, and so up over the slabs to the
corner, but the variation is not worth much.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
“ROUND THE NOTCH”--PILLAR ROCK. EAST SIDE
(_Face page 267_)]
The crack climb that now starts straight up the corner is one of the
neatest things on the Pillar Rock. The right wall is used for steadying
purposes when, half-way up, a jammed stone makes it necessary to emerge
from the crack. Some of the holds have splintered away during the last
few years, but there are yet enough to satisfy one’s needs. The finish
is a splendid pull up with the arms on to the leaf of rock already
referred to at the top of the Left Pisgah climb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account