Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
SLAB AND NOTCH ROUTE.--The upper part of the Great Chimney
offers no difficulty to the climber. Its southern boundary is a long
narrow buttress called the ‘Curtain,’ stretching from the top of
Walker’s Gully, to the summit of the High Man. Viewed in profile from
the Pillar Fell, the Curtain shows three distinct notches two-thirds
of the way up; they are about thirty feet above a slab set at an angle
of thirty degrees, and attainable by rough scrambling from the foot of
the East Jordan Gully. The easy route passes along this slab, directly
upwards to the middle notch and thence round the Curtain to the bed of
the Great Chimney. The walk along the slab is to some people a critical
undertaking, for a slip would have very serious consequences. A thin
crack on the line of march makes the course safer, unless ice or snow
have filled it up, but it is not an unusual sight to see men tackling
the walk on all-fours. The Curtain may be crossed at the lowest notch,
the ‘Ledge,’ by good firm rocks, and the Great Chimney entered on
the other side. Formerly it was the usual course to reach the bed of
the chimney at the lower part of the steep grass by what was called
the ‘Eight-foot Drop.’ But there is no need to drop at all; an easy
traverse from either the Notch or the Ledge brings the climber above
the steep grass, and virtually at the end of his cragwork. The chimney
finishes with scree, and lands the climber within a few feet of the
cairn on his left.
VARIATIONS ON THE EAST FACE.--It is possible to make a way
straight up the Great Chimney from its foot, joining the easy route
about a hundred feet up. Haskett Smith took this course in 1884,
commencing the climb on the stepped buttresses of the Curtain. Since
then the rock has had time to loosen a little, and climbers very rarely
enter the chimney that way.
The _Pendlebury traverse_ is an excellent variation of the ordinary
route, a popular scramble first indicated by Professor R. Pendlebury,
of Cambridge. From the slab the way lies straight up to the notch in
the Curtain, and then along a horizontal ledge in its south face as
far as the corner where it meets the High Man. Thence up the corner is
straightforward chimney-work, and on emergence at the top the cairn
will be visible close at hand on the left.
The traverse looks difficult until it is closely approached, when it
will be found that handholds abound on the wall, and that the ledge is
perfectly firm and continuous across the whole width of the Curtain.
The chimney in the corner of the south side of the Curtain can be
entered much lower down. From the slab a way lies straight up into it,
but the grass holds are not particularly pleasant if wet, and the first
thirty feet are severe.
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