Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
From the head of Walker’s Gully a way may be found to the Low Man,
below the immense slabs that crown the north-east buttresses. It
is best to climb the Shamrock first and prospect the route. Sheep
occasionally manage to get across, and the _Old Wall_ was built many
years ago to prevent their passage, but it is now ruined. Sometimes,
ignoring Badminton, they still venture across without a rope, and their
weaker members are liable to get crag-bound. Climbers can tell many
tales of famished sheep found in appalling situations on the Pillar
Rock. They are too weak to resist the slipping on of a rope, and are
simply hauled or slung out of every difficulty till a safe pasturage is
reached.
THE WEST CLIMB.--This was the route first discovered. It is much
longer than any of the ways on the south or east side, and possesses
but few interesting details. It is more popular as a descent than as an
ascent.
It is seemingly impossible to climb directly up the west wall of the
High Man, but in the walk down the west screes it will be noticed
that the rocks of the Low Man are more broken, and that several short
scree gullies sloping upwards to the left mark a rough route straight
towards the Low Man cairn. The course is best examined from a distance,
across the great western gully; it lies as close to the High Man as
is possible without undertaking anything but gully scrambling. Not
infrequently climbers find themselves astray on narrow grassy ledges
too much to the right. I experienced the same thing myself when first
attempting to find the way up, and found the ascent by no means so easy
as report had credited the west climb.
From the level of the Low Man the way lies very nearly along the
sky-line to the highest point. The High Man is struck at the end of a
square corner in the rock, and there is some excellent work for the
arms during the next thirty feet of ascent.
It is easier to turn over slightly to the east side, and up by the
great jagged boulders on the crest of the ridge. The _Slingsby crack_
is a short but rather stiff variation a little on the right or western
side of this route and is particularly interesting. Formerly a loose
block at its upper end gave the climber an occasional scare, but there
is nothing unsafe now in the form of detached boulders, and the ridge
can be followed with confidence to the High Man cairn. Nail marks are
strongly in evidence all through the crag-work; the leader should not
attempt the route if snow or rain prevents their recognition, unless he
is already perfectly acquainted with the way.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE NORTH FACE OF THE PILLAR ROCK]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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