Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
So spoke our guide, and having delivered himself at some length, with
an occasional appropriate anecdote thrown in, he concentrated his
attention on the small pitch that marked our point of arrival at the
Savage Gully. It was a wall seven feet high with indifferent grassholds
at the top, and in scrambling up care was needed to avoid dislodging
loose stones near the edge. It was then easy to clamber into a small
cave somewhat to the left, and out again by a twisted tunnel at the
back. Thence Robinson worked upwards over broken ground for a few
yards, until the point was reached where we were to leave the gully.
The direct route looked feasible for some distance ahead, but there was
no questioning the fact of its severity, and we had not come out that
day for exploration.
A divergence was made along an easy traverse towards the right, to a
short and narrow chimney that already bore traces of many previous
struggles. Wherever the rocks were clean and free from scree, we could
plainly see the scratches of nailed boots along the route. It was here
that we were rounding the great buttress of Savage Gully, and after a
little rough-ledge work we arrived at a square corner with a grassy
floor. Straight up from this floor a cleft offered safe passage. It
was plentifully supplied with holds, though some discrimination was
necessary in selecting the firmest. The climbing was delightful, and
zest was given to it by the magnificent situation. The corner was not
so deeply impressed in the buttress as to prevent our recognition of
the vastness of the cliff we were slowly ascending. The view downwards
just included the little grass platform, and beyond that the wild and
steep fellside at the foot of the precipice, already some hundreds of
feet below us.
We kept up the direct route so long as we were able. Then the cleft
in the corner suddenly dwindled down into the thinnest of cracks,
and it was obvious that a change of tactics would be necessary. The
left wall was faultlessly smooth. The right for the most part looked
just as inaccessible. The grass ledge on which we were standing really
seemed to suggest finality, the end of our upward progress, and I
turned to Robinson inquiringly with the impression that some wonderful
engineering process with the rope was now to be explained to us. We
knew that such was necessary on the climb, and were prepared by the
situation to see its application immediately.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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