Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
But the solution of the difficulty was of the simplest character. A few
feet from the corner the smooth right wall was split by a single crack
that passed up at an angle of perhaps thirty degrees and terminated at
a notch that broke the clean-cut outline of the rock facing us. From
the notch it certainly seemed as though nothing could be done further,
even if we got so far. Nevertheless, we were assured that when once
we were there all doubts would vanish, and we should have the easiest
hundred feet of scrambling in the whole day’s expedition. The crack was
the famous _Stomach traverse_; it was reached as long ago as 1884 by
Haskett Smith in his early exploration of the north face; and the name,
which had only recently been given to it, was intended to show how the
passage was supposed to be tackled. One of Willink’s illustrations in
the Badminton, showing an intrepid cragsman crawling along a ledge
from left to right, is sometimes criticised as an exaggeration of the
difficulties that rock-climbers have to overcome. This traverse before
us was not so easy as the one so cleverly depicted by the artist. It
sloped upwards, and the ledge was not wide enough for the whole body.
We were in no sense precariously placed, for the cleft enabled us to
wedge with security; but the right half of the body was outside the
leaf of rock on which we hung, and the right leg found no support on
the vertical wall.
Some twenty feet of wriggling brought us each in turn to the critical
corner, and there to our amazement we had merely to get up and walk
away. The wall we had passed was the last obstacle separating us from
a long stretch of steep grass chimneys and broken rocks. These extend
from the Nose at the foot of the crags up to the final difficulty,
now only a hundred feet above us, and offer the easier route up the
north face. Our own course by the Savage Gully was by far the more
entertaining one, and under most conditions decidedly safer than the
other.
From the notch we could either walk straight up to the cave-pitch in
the corner now facing us, or work easily round a rib of rock on the
right and join the other route. We chose the former, and found the
pitch decidedly stiff, the main trouble being to get satisfaction out
of the diminutive hand-holds on the upper surface of the top boulder.
However, it was time to be thankful for small mercies, and confidence
carried us up safely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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