Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
This was the _Strid_. Close up against the wall that blocked the
head of the gully, a long stride was to be taken across to a narrow
‘mantelshelf’ on the other side. There was no difficulty in the step,
but the consequences of any slip were so obvious that we were not
surprised to learn how respectfully the Strid is usually regarded. The
mantelshelf led us along under the wall for a few yards, and an upper
ledge was mounted. We were now close to the Savage Gully again, and
Robinson prepared to be let down into it on the rope. We were adopting
the tactics of Haskett Smith’s party in the first ascent. Robinson was
to climb down the wall of the gully by means of an irregular crack
twenty-five feet long, using the rope to steady himself during the
descent. At the foot of the crack he would be able to step into the bed
of the gully, and thence, after mounting it for a few feet, effect an
easy passage up the opposite side. He was then to unrope, and Hill was
to let me down in the same way, there being plenty of friction between
the rope and the rocks to enable him to hold my weight in case of a
slip. When safely landed in the gully, I was to take the rope up to
Robinson and wait the issue of events.
These went off without a hitch. The crack was difficult, though not
impossible for one man to descend alone; but I am convinced that a
man attempting the climb single-handed would be running great risk if
he proceeded without some sort of belaying with a rope. The little
story is well known of the youth who could not understand why he as
third and last man of his party had to be left behind on the ledge;
he had examined the crack and was certain he could climb down safely
without support from above. Nay more, he insisted on demonstrating the
fact, and when three-quarters of the way to the bed of the gully his
feet slipped and his handholds failed. Luckily the others were able
to prevent a serious fall, and the young man’s ‘climbing down’ was
strictly metaphorical.
Robinson then rapidly swarmed up to the left of the gully, and, after
mounting forty feet, traversed to the right into a long scree-shoot
that ended abruptly some twenty-five feet vertically above our solitary
companion on the ledge. Upwards the scree led straight to the summit
level of the Low Man, and two of us were of course in a position to
attain this point in a couple of minutes. But there was the third, to
manipulate, and Robinson proceeded to take out a short, spare rope from
his sack and expound the method of using the ‘stirrup.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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