Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
A party coming up the easy way would start from the terrace on
the Nose, close to its highest point. Their route would be quite
straightforward, though occasionally the question as to the safest
movement might introduce a slight digression. The great wall of the
Low Man on their right limits in the most definite manner all westerly
climbing, and their only trouble would be in negotiating two narrow
chimneys and some of the grass ledges, where the tufts are unpleasantly
loose and the slopes very slippery. The fact is that this way is not
much to be recommended; until it joins the other there is little merit
to justify the variation. If parties are certain they can finish the
second half of the ascent, they can assuredly climb the lower portion
_via_ the Savage Gully and the Stomach traverse.
We halted for a moment above our cave-pitch and looked around at the
crags. From a distant survey, such as that indicated in the photograph
facing page 271, it is impossible to realize that so large an open
space of easy ground can exist on the north face. But our opportunity
for advance was strictly confined to one direction. Further westwards
we could not go; the great wall was unassailable. To the east we
could have perhaps traversed away until progress was barred by the
narrow branch of the Savage Gully, which we had utilized lower down.
The northerly direction of course led down the easy route, and the
southerly pointed to an uncompromising extension of the great wall
towards the Savage Gully.
We were led straight up the small scree to the _split block_, a huge
boulder at the foot of the wall. The leader disappeared into a deep
crack, and after a few moments appeared at the top of the block, having
mounted by a secondary fissure that cut into the left portion of the
boulder. The movement was quite unexpected, and Hill and I were rather
startled at the aspect of things from the summit of the split block.
It stood at the top of the narrow branch of the Savage Gully already
referred to, and the view vertically down this branch was calculated to
make us hesitate before taking the next step.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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