Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Sitting as we were with our faces towards Buttermere, the great wall
bore away to the left, and our scree gully marked its eastern limit. A
horizontal crack extended for several feet across the wall, starting
from the top of the pitch below us. Only its end could be seen, but by
carefully working down to the corner on the left, and looking across
the face, we could see the way it cut clean into the rock. This was the
notorious _hand-traverse_, by which it was just possible to reach our
scree gully from the ledge below without the preliminary descent into
the Savage Gully.
A few minutes’ halt and we continued our course. There was no doubt or
difficulty in reaching the Low Man, and thence following the ridge to
the junction with the West Climb. A quarter of an hour saw us at the
High Man cairn, and another five minutes at the foot of the Central
Jordan. The ropes were stowed away again in the sack, and Robinson
rapidly strode across the screes and down the corridor behind the
Shamrock. In a phenomenally short time we were crossing the Liza
stream, and, without being allowed to halt, a bee-line was drawn for us
over to Scarth Gap by our untiring leader. Luckily for his followers,
the name of this pass, which is sometimes called Scarf Gap, reminded
him of a very good story concerning another famous climber who went
to an evening party without a dress-tie. We were told the story and
recovered breath sufficiently to continue our journey to Buttermere.
I wish now that I had not been so fatigued, so that I might have
remembered the whole anecdote and given it here in all detail.
THE HAND-TRAVERSE.--Nearly two years after the ascent described
in the previous section, Dr. Collier showed me a way of avoiding the
Savage Gully in the North Climb by following a direct route to the
upper screes. The plan is to work to the extreme east corner of the
ledge that succeeds the ‘mantelshelf,’ and when a narrow overhanging
chimney is reached, to swarm up the steep buttress on its left. It
looks particularly dangerous, but there is an excellent hold for the
hands just round the corner of the buttress, and when the first three
feet of ascent are accomplished the rest feels comparatively easy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account