Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
On the same occasion we each in turn ventured on the _hand-traverse_
from above. The place has already been referred to; it was known for
some time that the crack could be reached from the terrace below, and
Mr. Solly showed in 1891 that it could be followed to its left-hand
extremity at the scree gully. It is so named because the climber hangs
by his hands, with no footholds at all for the greater part of its
length, and traverses across the face by sheer strength of his arms.
Collier and I were well satisfied concerning the security of the crack
itself. We went to the further end and back again, without coming
across any place where the holds were treacherous. They were probably
more satisfying to the grip than an ordinary horizontal bar, on account
of the acute edge of the rock. On the other hand, we had no opportunity
of trying the ascent from the terrace, which promised to be rather
fatiguing for the arms, and which might render them useless for the
traverse itself.
On Whit Monday, 1896, a chance came for tackling the pitch in this new
way. It had been successfully accomplished once, and twice had the
climber’s strength of grip failed him when half-way across. So, at any
rate, we learnt by hearsay at Wastdale. Perhaps it ought to be added
that in one case it was the leader of the party who fell off, and the
rope saved him in a manner scarcely short of miraculous; in the other
case the rope was held from the scree gully, and the climber only swung
out on it. Our Whitsuntide party were willing that I should try, and
carefully measured out just a sufficiency of rope for me to reach the
crack. Then two of them stood together at the western extremity of the
terrace, and shouldered me up the first bad bit. There was every reason
to be quick, as resting-places were absent where the strain on the arms
could be eased. In twenty-five feet I reached the crack and halted
for a moment on a scanty foothold before trusting to the ledge. Then
came the swing off and a hasty sliding of the hands along the sharp
edge. The first bit was about eight feet long; then that particular
crack terminated abruptly in the wall, and another, two feet higher,
continued across in the same easterly direction. The lift of the body
up to the second crack was trying, but beyond this critical point the
movement was horizontal. It was somewhat clumsy--the scraping of the
body along the rough surface of the rock, with the legs held clear; but
my sole thought was to reach the end of the traverse twelve feet away,
and no consideration of style was entertained. In a very short time,
though it seemed far too long, the end of the wall was attained, and it
only remained to drag myself up to the scree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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