Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The rest of the party preferred to mount the buttress by Collier’s
route indicated in a previous paragraph. I think the hand-traverse
has not been attempted since, and it is perhaps just as well. It is
scarcely less than suicidal to try conclusions with this variation
unless the climber has full confidence in his strength of grip, and
unless he has already tested his powers of endurance of long-continued
strain in the arms. But with the leader of the party already at the
head of the pitch, no matter which way he got there, it involves no
serious risk for the others to follow by this route. The last on the
rope had better come up over the buttress.
CHAPTER XVIII
_NOTES ON REMAINING CLIMBS_
In this chapter it is proposed to deal summarily with a few remaining
rock-climbs that have not yet been described. Some are rather awkward
to reach, others are perhaps too slight to be worth the time spent in
reaching them unless they actually turn up in the day’s march. One or
two I have not visited, and am reluctant to accept the responsibility
of guiding people up them. But
What he thought he might require,
He went and took--the same as me!
is too general a motto among book-writers for me to hesitate long
before incorporating other people’s notes, and the attempt will be made
to acknowledge the source in each case.
PIERS GHYLL.--This is a fine-looking ravine on the north side
of Lingmell, occasionally visited by climbers. It has four or five
comparatively easy pitches before the big bend, but at the point where
the main gully is bridged by a great mass of rock the whole width of
the ravine is occupied by a waterfall fifty feet high, and any attempt
to force a passage up this pitch is peculiarly unsatisfactory unless a
rainless season has much diminished the volume of water passing down.
Such a season was that of 1893, and in April of that year Dr. Collier
led the first party up the whole length of the ghyll. Even under those
favourable circumstances the climb was very difficult, and no other
party has succeeded in repeating the ascent. Dr. Collier tells me that
the hardest bit is up the narrow pitch before reaching the great fall.
The latter offers a choice of two or three routes.
Piers Ghyll is conspicuous from a distance, and many a tourist knows
the place. Hence it has a reputation of its own even as a climb, which
it can scarcely be said to deserve. If, as Haskett Smith expresses it,
it is in nineteen seasons out of twenty wholly impossible to get over
the great obstacle, it cannot rightly be called a climb. The scrambling
up to the bend is mostly unpleasant by reason of the water and the
loose character of the rock. An exit can there be made up the wall on
the right, but the friability of this wall makes its ascent positively
dangerous except at one spot where a scree gully runs nearly to the top
of the cliff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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