Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
In conformity with its deserts as the grandest mass of crags in
Lakeland, the Pillar Rock has, of recent years, received most attention
from those in search of new routes and variations. So numerous and
intertwined are some of the latter that it would be difficult to say by
how many different ways the top of the famous rock can now be attained.
There are certainly a score that possess the merit of individuality.
However, though there is one important exception, that of the New West
Climb, the old routes still monopolise the bulk of the traffic. With
the development of the craft of rock-climbing the once popular, easy
routes, such as the Old West Climb or the Pendlebury Traverse, have
become less used than formerly. For a moderate party with an expert
leader the North Climb is now the favourite course, though the ‘New
West’ has become recognised as the finer climb. This recognition will,
probably, in due course make the latter outrival in popularity its
older compeer. But the ‘Slab and Notch,’ with the finish up the left
wall of the Great Chimney, still takes most Pillarites to the goal of
their ambition. In the other extreme stands the New North West Climb,
and fortunately so. It is too difficult and dangerous to attract those
climbers who truly realise that they have a life to lose. Famous
experts--one of whom made the descent alone--declare the New North West
Climb to be unjustifiable. For the descent of the Rock, especially
after reaching the top by one of the longer climbs, the Central Jordan
Crack is most generally used. Even under the worst conditions of storm,
ice, or snow a rope looped around the top retaining wall of the crack
allows downward escape to be made with comparative ease and safety.
[Illustration: THE PILLAR ROCK FROM THE WEST SIDE
A The Low Man.
B The High Man.
C Pisgah.
D The top of Easy Scree Gully.
PP New Pisgah Routes.
_aa_ The original old West Route.
_bb_ The New West Climb.
_dd_ The West Jordan Gully leading up to Jordan Gap.
_ee_ Screes bounding the base of Pisgah.
_ff_ Scree-slopes leading down to the Waterfall.
_s_ The Slingsby Crack. Old West Climb Variation.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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