Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE NEW WEST CLIMB.--Taken chronologically in this section,
if for no other reason, this course demands first attention. Its
outstanding features are sound, clean rocks, sensational situations
with magnificent views, and secure belays at each section where they
are really required. The climbing begins about 20 yards down the screes
from the foot of the West Jordan Gully; the exact point is just below
some large boulders which abut against the base of the main rock. Large
hand- and footholds enable the steep lower rocks to be easily climbed,
though at one point, about 60 feet above the start, there is a smooth
place that gives trouble when ice is present. About 20 feet higher, a
well-marked ledge leads to the right and out of the groove up which
the climb has thus far run. Some turfy ledges then soon conduct the
climber up to an impending nose of rock. After struggling up a short,
steep pitch in the base of this, it becomes obvious that a traverse to
the left is advisable. The place is vertical, but bulky and numerous
holds enable the passage to be made in comfort. The traverse finishes
abruptly on a steep buttress, with turf ledges at its foot. On the
right a convenient crack provides means of upward progress for about
30 feet; then an all too short scramble up a steep arête gives access
to two small ledges with accommodation for one climber only on each.
The rocks directly ahead overhang threateningly, and a traverse to the
left into the base of a steep chimney--the key to the climb--becomes
advisable. This movement is sensational, but the handholds nowadays are
ample for the swing across. Yet it is advisable to take the precaution
to hitch the rope over the splendid belay at the beginning of the
traverse, especially if the conditions are adverse. Once across this
section, a large chock-stone in the foot of the chimney can be utilised
as anchorage whilst the leader moves upwards. The upper part of this
30 foot chimney is probably the most awkward part of the whole climb.
If the back be kept on the left wall throughout, numerous small, but
sufficient, excrescences can be found on the confronting side of the
chimney. It would seem advisable to keep as much as possible in the
narrow cleft.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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