Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
A secure resting-place, with room for three or more climbers,
is shortly gained, and the chimney, which becomes loose and
repulsive-looking higher up, should now be deserted in favour of an
interesting traverse to the right. The passage around the vertical
corner is impressive, but careful use of the feet prevents the
awkward attitudes so often seen here. The movement across the face
to the right is still continued over capacious ledges in a slightly
upward direction to some prominent shattered rocks. Good anchorage is
available here. The final section begins above the shattered rocks, and
lies up a small, shallow crack which closes in about 15 feet higher
and necessitates a delicate step across a smooth slab on the right.
A well-marked, grassy recess is thus eventually gained. The ascent
finishes up this, and emerges within a few feet of the summit of the
Pillar Rock.
SAVAGE GULLY.--The direct ascent of this great rift, the aspect
of which is familiar to all who visit the Rock by way of the North
Climb, is too risky and dangerous to deserve serious attention from
rock-climbers. Yet from a historical and topographical point of view
the description of the first ascent by Mr. P. A. Thompson may prove of
interest. Though this indefatigable pioneer was finally safeguarded by
tying on a rope lowered from near the ‘Nose,’ the party who made the
second ascent--Messrs. Barton--conceded the honour of precedence to
Mr. Thompson, saying that the rope thus held could not be considered
any aid. On the lower 110 feet, resting-places have since been found,
and at no point is it necessary for the leader to take out more than 60
feet of rope. Under the date June 3, 1909, Mr. Thompson wrote:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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