Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The course starts from the westerly end of the Green Ledge. This is
marked _g_ on Mr. Jones’ line drawing facing p. 254. By a curious error
he named it the Nose. The rocks are comparatively easy at the outset;
some short chimneys lead up to a sloping slab, where a traverse to the
left is made into a more obvious chimney. This gives about 45 feet of
interesting back and knee work until it is possible to work out to
the right, and then up easy rocks to the crest of the buttress, where
stands a prominent cairn. Broad, grass-covered slabs lead to the base
of the nose of the Low Man, where the real difficulties begin.
The route at first bears away to the west up some slabs, and then
returns around a corner to a good ledge several yards long, whereon
stands a prominent cairn. Anchorage is available at this point. The
ledge is traversed to its extreme easterly end, and, after rounding
a projecting rock, an ascent of about 10 feet allows a V
shaped recess to be gained. This has been called ‘Le Coin.’ Above
this important stance there are three distinct ledges to be gained.
The first of these entails about 15 feet of difficult ascent from
‘Le Coin’; probably the best way lies up the right wall. The first
ledge possesses a sound belay, and the second is recognizable by a
larger belay, which is cracked, but safe at present. A party of three
might foregather here. An ascent of quite 35 feet then leads to a
‘triangular’ ledge, possessing practically no dependable belay. The key
to further progress here is the negotiation of a sensational stride
around a corner to the left and thus into an open, exposed chimney
nearly 50 feet high. Above this there is a difficult and risky traverse
back to the right, mostly on a small, grassy ledge. A broad recess
slightly higher soon gives ample resting space. From the second ledge
above ‘Le Coin,’ whereon stands the ‘cracked belay,’ to this point
entails a lead out for the first man of about 90 feet. The difficulty
and danger of this section will undoubtedly militate against the
North-West Climb ever becoming ‘an easy day for a lady.’ The ascent to
the crest of the Low Man is made up a conspicuous cleft, Oppenheimer’s
chimney, which is reached after crossing some broken rocks to the
right. Two projecting chock-stones facilitate the ascent.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
“OVER THE NOSE”--THE PILLAR ROCK]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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