Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE HIGH MAN FROM ABOVE THE NOSE ON THE NORTH CLIMB.--This
ascent can be made in several different ways, some of which were made
in the earlier days, but, like many variations on the Pillar Rock,
never recorded by the pioneers. Yet Stony Gully, which gives the
usual route from the Nose up to the Low Man, is best avoided should
the climbers find themselves ‘under fire’ from another party who have
thoughtlessly gone on in advance. There have been several narrow
escapes from falling stones hereabouts. At such times knowledge of the
alternative ways up the High Man may be useful. After surmounting the
Nose, Stony Gully should be crossed and left immediately. Easy grass
and rock ledges then afford rapid upward progress to be made to the
base of the steep rocks of the High Man. All the way up the sharp,
rocky, north-east arête of the peak is conspicuous overhead, and the
point to aim for is a deeply cut chimney somewhat to the left of a line
directly below the summit of the arête. This chimney was climbed some
years ago; its recesses are narrow and steep below, but higher up there
is a broad ledge on the right, whence the pull over the dominating
chock-stone can be taken. The climber emerges on the great, sloping
slabs which slant down the upper right-hand wall of the Great Chimney.
They are an unmistakable feature in the view of the east side of the
rock from the Shamrock. The slabs may be crossed more easily than
their appearance would indicate, and thus the usual upper section of
the Great Chimney entered on a level with the ledge leading around and
below the Notch.
On the other hand, these slabs can be avoided by climbing upwards to
the right to a broad ledge and then around the prominent perpendicular
nose of the High Man to join the easy, ordinary route from the Low
Man. There is yet another way to the top of the Rock, which was used
by Mr. Botterill’s party in 1909. This runs almost directly up the
nose of the High Man from the broad ledge previously mentioned. The
place is steep and sensational enough to warn off novices, but the
rock is firm and yields sufficient hand and footholds, though these
are awkwardly spaced. The same party reached this nose from below by
climbing up the outer right-hand wall of the chimney first mentioned.
This is probably the easier of the two routes, for the rock is deeply
split into convenient clefts for hands and feet. Incidentally it might
be mentioned that those ascending the Rock by the Old Wall Route, from
near the top of Walker’s Gully, pass below these more difficult climbs
and take a slanting course up to a small square-looking chimney, above
which the usual way from the Low Man is gained. This was one of the
earliest ways up the Pillar Rock, and the ascent involves less real
hand and footwork than any other route.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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