Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The latter remark scarcely applies to the new portion of the Abbey
Ridge, especially if the direct ascent of the _mauvais pas_ be made.
A long ‘run out’ for the leader at this point warrants the warning
that the lofty sanctuary of the Abbey is only for the expert who is
in perfect training. The climb begins easily, either at the very
bottom of the ridge or by joining it at a point almost on a level with
the beginning of the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. The ascent to the top of a
conspicuous detached mass begins to suggest difficulty. But the real
work starts directly above this, in gaining a narrow grassy ledge which
stretches across the face for several feet. From the extreme left
of this ledge the way lies up the arête until a steep, grassy gully
slightly more to the left affords a finish to the upper ledge on a
level with the top of the Eagle’s Nest Chimney. This is the easier of
the two exits. The direct route bears away to the right below the steep
and grassy gully until an overhanging block rises above the climber.
It is important to make sure of this position, as the rocks are now
very well scratched. The key to the situation is a good hold for both
hands right under the overhanging block. Progress beyond this crucial
point is scarcely safe unless this grip is secured, but once above this
‘step’ the rest is comparatively safe and easy. The rock throughout is
of the usual Gable quality.
Two other small variations on the Napes may be mentioned in passing.
In the autumn of 1910 Messrs. H. R. Pope and E. T. W. Addyman found an
interesting problem on the right wall of the ordinary West Chimney on
the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. From the big belay half-way up this cleft it
is possible to traverse out to the right on to a steep rock face which
forms the left-hand wall of the Ling Chimney. This wall can be climbed
to the top on ledges which lead across to the right-hand edge and then
back to the left again. The finish can be taken directly upwards.
It is scarcely advisable to say that anything new can be found on the
Needle Ridge. However, Messrs. A. G. Woodhead and J. Laycock have
accentuated the fact that this much-trodden ridge can be climbed
straight up from the lowest point. The last 15 feet before the old
route is gained require skilful treatment.
Numerous small and unimportant variations on the ever-attractive
Needle have been made. Records of personal gymnastics are best omitted
here, though the best of all may be mentioned--that of the beginner,
who ‘climbed’ the top stone by a really new method. This enthusiast
assumed a position of repose on the mantelshelf, and for half-an-hour
pored over the view over the edge and down the impressive scree slopes
of Gable. At last the patience of the lusty leader on the top became
exhausted. Though the novice hung on with his hands, he ‘had to come,’
which he did feet first.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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