Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The attractions of the Ennerdale Face of Great Gable have been
increased by the discovery of a splendid course by Dr. J. S. Sloane
and Messrs. M. Gimson, A. J. Gimson, and J. E. Henderson in the
April of 1909. They appropriately suggested that the rift might be
called the SMUGGLER’S CHIMNEY, and this name has been adopted.
The hand and footwork starts about 100 feet west of the foot of the
Central Gully, with about 20 feet of ascent of steep rock. The chimney
proper, which is vertical and about 85 feet in height, now begins. It
is in three stages, and the first part gives 35 feet of engrossing
climbing before a cave is entered. The hardest part of the climb occurs
where there is an undercut bulge of rock about 10 feet below this
resting-place. At this point it is probably best to forsake the back
and foot method and allow the arms and knees to do most of the work.
The second section of the chimney above the Cave consists of a narrow,
vertical, deeply-cut crack which bears some resemblance to the Monolith
Crack in North Wales. This stretch--though squeeze might be the better
word--is 25 feet in height. The final pitch is almost the same height,
but its extra width will prove gratifying to stout climbers despite
the somewhat constricting final wriggle afforded by the hole of the
‘through route.’ Easy, grassy ground is now encountered, which leads
past the ‘Smuggler’s Retreat,’ and thus to the crest of the crags.
In the September of 1908 Messrs. G. H. L. Mallory and G. L. Keynes
found two ‘little climbs’ on the Ennerdale Face to the left of the
Bottle-shaped Pinnacle Ridge. They can be reached from the Scree
Gully--marked B on the line drawing--by traversing upwards from the
fork towards a large overhanging crag. This is a prominent feature
of this side of Gable Crag. The new climbs are claimed to be the
nearest routes which can be found to the left and to the right of
the overhanging crag. Cairns mark the start of each course, that to
the left being the easier of the two, and giving about 150 feet of
climbing. On the right a steep crack affords for the most part the
means of ascent. The difficulty is concentrated in the first 80 feet.
Where the crack becomes easier and wider higher up, it is probably
better to end the climb by traversing on to the right buttress.
A few other minor points of interest on the Ennerdale Face may be
worth mention. For instance, Messrs. H. V. Reade and G. Arbuthnot have
shown that the vertical crack rising from near the foot of the Oblique
Chimney to the gap behind the Bottle-shaped Pinnacle may be climbed,
but not without difficulty. The disappearance of the much discussed
‘rocking-rock’ in the Engineers’ Chimney has not made the ascent any
easier; in fact, the relative difficulty of this section remains about
the same.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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