Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Messrs. A. G. Woodhead and W. L. Collinson climbed this lower
difficulty in August 1907, after which they bore straight upward over
shelving and fairly difficult ledges for a hundred feet or so, until
impending rocks forced them away to the left. When almost in a line
with the top of the Pinnacle they struck straight upward from a broad
platform (where a cairn now stands) over a bulge of rock, necessitating
a good arm pull, until a belay was reached. Thence a grassy gully led
them without difficulty to the top of the High Man. The climb is
one of much merit, and deserves more popularity than it enjoys. The
exceedingly difficult start may have acted as a deterrent, but it may
be an encouragement to leaders to know that once they have overcome
this _mauvais pas_ the higher rocks contain climbing of a much easier
order.
SCAWFELL PINNACLE FROM DEEP GHYLL, VARIATIONS.--A somewhat
easier way of reaching the Low Man from the _firma loca_ (p. 81) than
that of the arête followed in the first ascent, was found and climbed
by Mr. A. H. Binns alone in August 1904. This is now called Gibson’s
Chimney route, after Mr. H. O. S. Gibson, who repeated the ascent in
June 1907, and left a lucid description of it in the Wastdale Climbers’
Book.
From the _firma loca_ a traverse is made in the direction of the arête
until a crack sloping up to the right is reached. This is followed for
about 15 feet, and the upper reaches of the chimney described by Mr.
Jones as ‘hopeless’ (p. 82) soon attained. Here a leaf of rock, with
good holds on its edge, affords moderately difficult and strenuous
climbing for 30 feet until the chimney becomes impossible. It is then
abandoned to the left, along a traverse which leads past a good belay
to the arête. The first step upward on this gives a pretty problem in
an exposed position. The holds are small but good until the vertical
piece is scaled. Thence the going is comparatively easy to the crest of
the Low Man. Other variations have been found from the _firma loca_,
but, while some of these many prove useful to a leader unable to follow
Mr. Jones’ route, the original climb is by far the most entertaining
for strong parties.
A good belay about 40 feet up the lower crack has dispelled many of its
terrors, and now renders the long initial run out on the part of the
leader quite unnecessary.
DEEP GHYLL, SECOND PITCH.--It is of interest--a melancholy
interest perhaps--to know that it is no longer necessary to climb up
the left or right side of this famous pitch in the historic manner, and
that an inglorious ascent can now be made through a hole at the back
of the cave. Stones drop straight down this hole from the Ghyll above,
perhaps as a hint to climbers to play the game in the old-fashioned way!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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