Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
GREAT END. THE BROTHERS’ CRACK.--Glorious as is Great End in the
winter time, it has never appealed largely to the rock-climber pure and
simple. But these latter will be entertained excellently if they join
the brotherhood of the new crack, which owes its exploitation to those
well-known judges of a sound climb, Mr. G. F. and Rev. A. J. Woodhouse.
The crack rises about 60 feet to the north of the well-known Brigg’s
Cave Pitch on the east end of the crags. The actual crack itself is
nearly as high as that on Kern Knotts. It is situated in a corner, and
rises vertically from a large grass ledge. This take-off is reached
by ordinary scrambling, though the final landing is made by means of
a short crack. The real climbing up the main crack, which is here too
narrow to admit one’s body, begins with a slabby section in two parts,
in all about 20 feet high. The crack now widens, and is available for
wedging purposes. After a short stretch of ‘back and knee’ the most
difficult portion is reached, and for this the leader would be well
advised to thread the rope behind a jammed stone. The final obstacle
possesses an overhanging chock-stone, but good ledges on the left wall
simplify the finish. The climb is undoubtedly severe, for the leader
can nowhere receive any help from his companion.
SCAWFELL.--Of late years but little new climbing of any
magnitude has been done on Scawfell. This is no doubt entirely due
to the fact that in the early days Scawfell was the most attractive
and most exploited of all the Lakeland crags. The present decade has
produced first-rate climbers to an unlimited extent, but their best
efforts have been restricted by the rocks themselves, and, where these
have been forced to yield climbs, what they have given us are in many
cases just beyond the line of safety, even for the best parties.
Another effect of this strenuous search after new routes has been the
discovery of many variations, and some of these are worth description,
although necessarily brief, in a work like the present.
SCAWFELL PINNACLE CLIMB DIRECT FROM UPPER DEEP GHYLL.--The start
of this climb is described by Mr. Jones on p. 88. After the first 15
feet or so he traversed away to the left on to the arête of the Low Man.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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