Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
_THE BUTTERMERE CLIMBS, AND THOSE IN OUTLYING DISTRICTS_
For strong and experienced parties of climbers, with a penchant
for boating, fishing, and long mountain tramps on the ‘off days,’
Buttermere is well-nigh ideal. Moreover, the _blasé_ ‘Wastdale Header’
will find amongst the fine corrie-like combes of High Crag and High
Stile, and above the great hollow of Warnscale, climbs of an entirely
different nature from most of the nail-scratched, polished courses
of his former haunts. Many of the Buttermere climbs are still to
all intents and purposes virgin ascents. The rock of which they are
formed does not take nail-marks so readily, and the blatant, scratched
foothold, which positively shouts at one ‘here am I!’ is as yet an
alien in these parts. The texture of the gullies is very different; it
is always necessary to be on the alert for unsteady chock-stones; every
hold needs testing; in fine, care and experience are essential to safe
ascents.
Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer, in his book ‘The Heart of Lakeland,’ has made
out a strong case for the claims of Buttermere as a centre for the more
historic climbs, and justly says that ‘after Wastdale Head--though no
doubt a long way after--it is one of the best centres in Lakeland.’ The
Buttermere Hotel is in every way a most excellent house, and to those
whose leaning is towards a simple life the farmhouses in the valley
are second to none. So much granted, it is perhaps as well to review
the work that has been done here, chiefly, it may be stated, by Mr.
Oppenheimer and his friends and brethren of the Rücksack Club.
THE GULLIES OF WARNSCALE.--When standing in the huge, green
hollow at the edge of Buttermere, one has on the north the great
face of Fleetwith, with a long prominent gully almost in the
centre--Fleetwith Gully. A point of the compass further round is a
bulging outcrop of rock, a prominent feature in all the photographs of
the Head of Buttermere. This is Green Crag, and up its left-hand side
runs Green Crag Gully, reminiscent of the late J. W. Robinson, who,
with Mr. W. A. Wilson, made its first ascent in 1899. To the right of
this, and on the Crag itself, is an unmistakable black rift, which is
now known as Toreador Gully. Further round still, and facing Fleetwith,
is the well-known Haystacks Mountain. Well to the left of the striking
cones which have given the mountain its name is a steep rock-face
seamed by three vertical rifts, one of which forks into two branches
about a third of the way up the Crags--the Y Gully. The middle rift is
Warn Gill, an ‘exceptionally severe course,’ whilst the one to the
right is Stack Ghyll, probably the best and most useful climb in the
valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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