Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
FLEETWITH GULLY is somewhat disappointing on close acquaintance.
There are at least six pitches, but only two have any claim to
individuality. These are generally moist, and are scarcely ever
climbed, because they can easily be avoided on either side. Vegetation,
water, and loose stones are the impressive features of the gully.
GREEN CRAG GULLY suffers from a drawback common to some others
of the Buttermere climbs--in all but the driest weather a very
considerable stream of water tumbles down it. As a climb it is somewhat
disappointing, but the first pitch, a fine vertical rise of about 70
feet, is quite entertaining. Above this the going lacks character
and is comparatively easy, although care is needed on account of the
quickly disintegrating rock. Of a very different character is its
companion climb, TOREADOR GULLY. After some exploration work,
during which a dangerous huge block was dislodged, a party of Fell and
Rock Club Members, led by Mr. H. B. Lyon, subsequently made its ascent
in August 1908.
After a somewhat difficult start, the gully eases off and seductively
leads the climber upward to an 80-foot wet chimney, which is the crux
of the climb. The walls are set at a convenient distance apart for
‘backing up,’ and for a while all goes well. However, just when the
leader, who has worked upwards with his feet on the right wall and
back on the left, is beginning to feel fatigued and in need of a rest,
the difficulties increase, and it becomes necessary to transfer the
body across and face the opposite wall. Of anchorage there is none,
but the second man can back up to below the leader, and, firmly braced
across the chimney, can at least support him by the encouragement
of his proximity; whether he could hold his companion in the event
of a slip is somewhat doubtful. By most careful balancing, and an
exceedingly anxious time for the second man, the leader can effect a
lodgment facing the left wall, whence, with great difficulty, he can
work over the crest of the pitch.
Above this are two obstacles of a comparatively mild nature. There is
no record of a second ascent, although we understand that this climb is
quite justifiable for a really strong party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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