Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
There are four difficult pitches in the gully, three of them being of
the cave and jammed-boulder variety. Unfortunately a grassy terrace
divides the lower pitches from the upper portion, making it easy to
leave the gully above the second pitch. This somewhat spoils the
continuity of the climb. The first pitch is not difficult, and may be
passed directly over the chock-stone after first backing up on the
left. The second obstacle is more trying. The best plan is to ‘back
up’ as far as the recess under the capstone, and with the second man
in this secure resting-place the leader may negotiate the awkward exit
over the boulder on its right-hand side. The third or ‘Great Pitch’
starts from above the intervening ledge. Eighty feet higher a huge
boulder has become jammed across the gorge, with a smaller mass below
it. There is no cave below these, and as the place is very steep,
somewhat smooth, and always rather wet, it ranks as much the most
difficult part of the climb. A shallow scoop just to the right of the
bed of the gully enables the lower chock-stone to be reached. Some
anchorage is available here, and the rope may be threaded to secure
the further advance of the leader. The final exposed section is best
climbed to the left of the crack, which is formed between the big
boulder and the left wall. The final pitch is vegetation-covered, and
possesses a fine bridge-rock, but the whole of the gully is loose, and
the finish somewhat unpleasant.
DOVE CRAGS, PATTERDALE.--This cliff looks tempting when seen
from below the Kirkstone Pass and near the Brotherswater Hotel,
which provides the best starting-point. Climbers have more than once
essayed the ascent. ‘An impossible face’ and ‘an inaccessible gully’
seemed to be the only result until October 1910, when Messrs. H.
Westmorland, J. Mounsey, and W. A. North discovered a complicated route
up the rock-face. This was about 100 feet to the right of the really
‘inaccessible gully.’ The overhanging sections were avoided by some
skilful traversing, and the situations often proved sensational. In the
local newspapers it was stated that a doctor was present at the foot of
the crags.
Small cairns mark the route, which, once correctly started upon, can
hardly be missed, for there is scarcely another available.
CHAPTER IV
_RECENT CLIMBS AROUND LANGDALE AND DOE CRAG_
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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