Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
In the early days parties of keen campers and scramblers frequented
the beautiful dales around the head of ULLSWATER. But nowadays,
after everything has been explored thoroughly, it cannot be said that
there is much in the vicinity to attract cragsmen. On Helvellyn, St.
Sunday’s Crag, and Fairfield there is plenty of indefinite scrambling
to be found, but this is never continuously good, rather the reverse.
Despite its huge bulk Helvellyn possesses few rocks that favour the
climber. Dolly Waggon Pike, at the head of Grisedale, is the best of
all. It contains two gullies which may be reached from Patterdale in
about an hour and a half, or from the top of Dunmail Raise on the
Grasmere side in less than an hour’s time. In these days of motor
mountaineering this fact is worth remembering. The best-known course,
DOLLY WAGGON PIKE GULLY, lies rather towards the westerly end of
the crag, and rises, narrow and steep, just to the right of a series
of big scree gullies which unite and send a conspicuous talus of scree
down the mountain side. Some short introductory scrambling leads to
the real climbing, where an almost vertical crack rises on the left in
the true bed of the gully. A shallow scoop on the right gives the best
route for about 15 feet, when it may be advisable to traverse back to
the left into the crack above the steepest part. This is now followed
by a patch of scree above a series of slabs, and short boulder pitches
lead to the final chimney, which rises slightly on the left. About 300
feet east of this somewhat easy course there is a much more imposing
opening in the crags. This was noticed many years ago by the pioneers,
notably by the late Tom Westmorland, whose name all climbers remember
with respect in connection with the early days on the Pillar Rock, and
the building of the Westmorland cairn or Great Gable. The great rift
in Dolly Waggon Pike, though often attempted, was not climbed in its
entirety direct until so recently as 1910. Strange to tell, it fell to
the lot of the pioneer’s son, Mr. Horace Westmorland, to lead the first
party. His companion was Mr. John Mounsey. Their friends have named the
place the PENRITH GULLY.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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