Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE BUTTRESS BETWEEN THE GREAT AND LITTLE GULLIES at first
sight suggests first-class climbing. Closer acquaintance, however,
reveals the presence of so much vegetation and such an indefinite
rock structure that the place is disappointing. The ascent had been
made many years ago, but no record would appear to have been made
until early in 1910, when the late J. Anton Stoop and Mr. Douglas
Yeomans discovered a route, which has the merit of individuality.
They started from the foot of the buttress about 50 yards to the left
of the Great Gully, and adhered as closely as possible to the main
ridge, gradually slanting up to the left towards the head of a small
side gully which springs out of the Little Gully. The last 80 feet
consisted of a vertical face, with a very conspicuous overhanging stone
at the corner. The face was climbed by a chimney which had been seen
from below, just to the left of the corner. The chimney consisted of
two parts, with a chock-stone at the top. Above this the climb can be
varied considerably; the upper rocks of Pavey Ark are famous for their
wonderful gripping and ripping qualities, and they are here at their
best.
A good deal of indefinite scrambling has been undertaken on the walls
of the deep opening at the easterly end of the cliff--marked C on Mr.
Jones’ line drawing facing p. 203. Two routes on the left-hand wall are
worth passing mention. GIBSON’S CHIMNEY is a well-marked cliff
in the upper part of the opening. Large cairns mark the start and the
finish. There are two definite pitches, which in all afford about 50
feet of straightforward backing up practice.
BENISON’S CHIMNEY, which rises between Gibson’s Chimney and Rake
End Chimney, is built on a different mould. It consists of a series of
ill-defined scoops somewhat resembling the Shamrock Chimneys on the
Pillar. The place is nearly 200 feet high. It reeks with danger and
rank vegetation; moreover, loose holds occur at crucial points. The
most difficult section occurs about 150 feet above the start. A steep
bit of rock about 15 feet high has to be ascended. There is practically
only one satisfactory hold on this stretch; the ulterior support is
grass; and the base of operations is a quivering, turf ledge, which
threatens to come away momentarily. Thus no help can be afforded the
leader, whose troubles are further accentuated by a lack of anchorage.
The writer trusts that few climbers will be attracted by Benison’s
Chimney.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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