Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
GIMMER CRAG has of late years received much attention from rock
enthusiasts. The shapely buttress is a conspicuous feature of the
Langdale Pikes, especially when seen from the direction of Blea Tarn.
The full height of the crag, which is singularly firmly weathered, is
nearly 400 feet. It thrusts itself aggressively forth from the grassy
spur which joins Pike O’ Stickle with Harrison Stickle. Yet, until the
late Andrew Thomson, of genial memory, described its opportunities so
recently as 1901, climbers scarcely seemed to realise the existence of
Gimmer Crag. There are now three distinct climbs of exceptional merit
and two important variations, whilst on either side of the main crag
plenty of indefinite scrambling and short gully problems can be enjoyed.
THE GIMMER CHIMNEY.--This obvious cleft starts at the foot
of the Crag to the right of, and lower down than the nose of, the
buttress. The first serious difficulty occurs about 40 feet up, where
the direct ascent of the chimney becomes impossible, and a traverse is
made to the right. After an awkward upward movement has been made it
is possible to force a way back into the chimney by swinging on a good
handhold. The second obstacle is of the strid variety, followed by a
shallow groove, with the best holds on the right wall. This gives out
below a well-defined chimney, which is difficult to enter, being, as
its engineering discoverer aptly described it, ‘bell-mouthed.’ Above
this a traverse to the right is made, whence a chimney with holds on
the right wall enables some grassy higher ledges to be reached. The
final chimney is wide at the beginning, but narrows near the top, where
a rib of rock protrudes and leaves a narrow but safe passage on the
right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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