Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Some considerable distance below the start of the terrace, and at
about the lowest extremity of B Buttress, a thin crack starts up to
the right. This marks the start of the route by which the Buttress was
first climbed. The crack gives out upon a grass ledge about 30 feet
above the screes. Beyond this a somewhat awkward stretch of climbing
brings one below some overhanging rocks, which entail a flank movement
to the left until a conspicuous recess is reached. The continuation
above this is most exhilarating, a steep exposed face of rock which
takes the climber into an ideal situation, and which claims his entire
attention in the continuation of its enjoyment. Two chimneys on either
hand have both been climbed, but the ascent of the rock-face should not
be missed. It finishes on the Easy Terrace. Above this the Buttress
evidences a lack of continuous climbing, and the time will be better
spent by descending the terrace and thence round to the foot of the
Central Chimney.
After ascending the easy rocks at its foot for about a hundred feet, a
detached pinnacle is a prominent object on the left. Messrs. Woodhouse
found that by passing behind this a fine chimney could be entered and
ascended to a grassy ledge at its top. A pleasing variation is to be
had by passing below the pinnacle, whence a steep slab recommends
itself to the gymnast, and, after a strenuous pull on the arms, lands
him at the foot of the chimney mentioned above. From the grassy ledge
above it the route can be varied in many ways, but the best sport lies
across to the left for a few feet, where a chimney of real difficulty
forms the lowest of a series of pitches of great merit.
C BUTTRESS separates the Central Chimney from the Intermediate
Gully, and throughout its entire length is set at a very high angle. It
offers little temptation to stray from the line of least resistance,
and the climbing is better defined than on most of the Buttress routes.
For a hundred feet or so the holds are large and plentiful, but the
climbing is interesting withal, until further progress in the same line
is barred by impending rocks.
After traversing slightly to the right some steep slabs provide
excellent sport until a good belaying pin is reached. Again discretion
suggests a flank movement, this time slightly downwards to the left,
and thence, after rounding a corner, upward progress is made to a grass
ledge.
The scenery hereabouts is magnificent, and a few minutes can be well
spent in viewing the formidable difficulties of the Central Chimney,
the greater part of which is now visible. It appears anything but
inviting, and most people will be content with merely looking. Our
Buttress also has become difficult, and the next move up some steep
slabs, which terminate on a wide grassy ledge awkward of access, is
one necessitating considerable care and skill on the part of the leader.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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