Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
A BUTTRESS is the magnificent bastion which separates the Easy
Scree Gully from the Great Gully. Unlike the other buttresses, which
afford good climbing only for about 200 feet above their bases, the
best sport is to be obtained in its higher reaches. The climbing starts
at about the centre of the buttress, where is a cairn, but a vast
overhanging precipice forces the climber away diagonally to the left
along a narrow, grass ledge, which dwindles until, at a considerable
height above the screes, an awkward corner is rounded. This can be
reached by two distinct variations starting lower down and to the left
of the route described, both of which are very stiff. Above this a thin
crack is ascended for about 30 feet until a large ledge is attained.
Here a choice of routes is available. A cave pitch straight ahead can
be ascended on the right wall and, after ascending some broken rocks, a
traverse to the right discloses an interesting chimney, above which the
serious climbing ceases. An easy gully leads to this cave pitch direct
from the Easy or Little Gully.
For very strong parties a fine variation is to traverse diagonally
upward to the right from the large ledge, treading the upper edge of
the huge overhanging crag already referred to, until a fine chimney
is entered. This is difficult, but the anchorage is good. A few feet
above it an exposed traverse is made away to the right until the foot
of a most sensational crack is reached. This can be climbed, or the
traverse continued somewhat further until upward progress can be made
by a zigzag course almost overhanging the upper confines of the Great
Gully. To Messrs. Ormiston-Chant, Craig Gordon, and Parker most of the
fine variations on this buttress have fallen.
B BUTTRESS offers several good climbs, the most recently
discovered of which--the Giant’s Crawl--starts at the foot of the
Great Gully and, after striking straight upwards for about 100 feet of
exceptional severity, follows a well-defined slab diagonally to the
right for about 250 feet. It then doubles back to the left and thence
to the top of the crags.
Some years ago Messrs. R. W. and H. C. Broadrick made a very fine climb
up the crest of the retaining wall of the Great Gully. This started
from the same point as the Giant’s Crawl, but instead of continuing
across the face to the right they struck upward over some poised and
shattered blocks and came upon the well-defined crest referred to;
thence, by continuously steep and sensational rocks, which, however,
afford good holding, they forced a way to the crest of the crags--one
of the best and longest routes up the Buttresses.
A few feet below the foot, and to the right of the Great Gully, a wide
broken terrace or rake gives easy access to the heart of the crags, and
all the other good climbs on B, C, and D Buttresses to be described,
finish on this terrace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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