Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition — John Shaqi
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Doe Crag, Intermediate Gully.
Scawfell Pinnacle, High Man (direct from Deep Ghyll).
Gimmer Crag, B route.
The Abbey Buttress, Great Gable.
Screes Great Gully (direct).
Doe Crag, North Gully.
Gimmer Crag, A Route.
Toreador Gully, Buttermere.
Birkness Chimney, Buttermere.
Warn Gill, Buttermere.
Haskett Gully, Scoat Fell.
Doe Crag, Easter Gully, O. G. Jones’ Route.
Scawfell Pinnacle _viâ_ Low Man by Deep Ghyll, Gibson’s Chimney.
Scawfell Pinnacle by Deep Ghyll, O. G. Jones’ Route.
Kern Knotts Crack.
North Face Pillar Rock, by Hand Traverse.
Doe Crag, Easter Gully, by Hopkinson’s Crack.
Doe Crag, Central Chimney.
Eagle’s Nest Ridge, Great Gable.
Doe Crag, Easter Gully, by Broadrick’s Crack.
Walker’s Gully.
C Gully, the Screes.
North West Climb, Pillar Rock.
Scawfell Pinnacle (direct from Lord’s Rake), O. G. Jones’ Route.
In every expedition the party should be provided with a sufficient
length of rope--varying from twenty to fifty feet for two men, thirty
to eighty feet for three--according to the character of the climb and
the lengths of its individual pitches. It is very unwise to dispense
with the rope, even on simple courses; the fact is patent in the Alps
that amateurs take a long time to learn how to look after their portion
of the rope when busily engaged on rocks; they are apt to leave all
such details to the guides in front or behind them, and would do well
to practise regular independence in that respect.
Ice-axes are generally necessary during the colder months of the year.
They are inconvenient to manipulate on very difficult rocks, whether
the climber is going up or down. But in the rapid descent of easy
crags, face outwards, they are invaluable as aids to balancing; and
steep grass or scree can undoubtedly be descended better with their
assistance. The Cumberland crags are too smooth to make _scarpetti_
(_Kletterschuhe_) worth trying. These are rope-soled shoes that grip
better than nailed boots when the texture of the rock-surface is
sufficiently rough, but our expeditions are best made without them.
ROCK-CLIMBING
CHAPTER I
_PIKE’S CRAG_
The Pikes of Scawfell are bold and picturesque, but their precipices
are slight and climbers can find but little on them that needs the use
of a rope. One genuine exception must be made in favour of Pike’s Crag,
the rock that guards the Pikes end of Mickledore. Here a good deal of
practice may be obtained, and although in comparison with Scawfell
Crag over the way we may feel that everything is in miniature, yet the
quality of the work is good and some of the pitches really severe. Few
people seem to have troubled to examine the detail of the cliff until
September, 1894, when Messrs. Fowler and Wilberforce spent a few days
on it, and prepared the effective diagram of the lines of route that
they subsequently transferred to the Wastdale book.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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