Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE GREAT CHIMNEY.--The position of this has already been
defined. Its ascent affords the best finish to the Deep Ghyll climb if
snow is absent from the gully and the screes are wearisome. The aspect
of the chimney is most forbidding from below, and there is probably
but one way of vanquishing it. I had been told how the first party had
proceeded up it, and had also heard an account of their defeat at a
second attempt. There is much likelihood of defeat even when one knows
the way, by reason of the awkwardness of the corner that needs careful
negotiation, and I am bound to admit that a first ascent rapidly
accomplished may help the climber very little in his second attempt. At
the time of my visit the rocks were warm and dry, our party of three
had just come up Collier’s Climb, and were keen on completing their
knowledge of Scawfell by making for the only chimney with which they
were unacquainted. We all gathered together high up in the recess,
and then, when the rope had been satisfactorily arranged for a long
run out, I started working up the right wall by some small but strong
ledges till the roof of the cavern was approached. Then it became
necessary to work out of the cave and round by the jammed stone. Just
outside was a ledge within reach for the hands; but to work the body
up the corner so as to kneel on the ledge was very awkward, the main
trouble arising from the depressing effect of the corner of the jammed
stone which forced head and shoulders almost to the level of one’s
feet. The prayerful attitude realized, I could anchor myself a little
by looping the rope round a stone in the roof and had then only to
stand up and clamber between the boulder and the living rock, trusting
to footholds on the latter. A few feet landed me in safety and the
others came up like smoke, carrying my cap that the gymnastics round
the corner had shaken down to them. A short scree and a few easy rocks
completed the gully, which both in regard to the aspect from above and
to the form of its one great difficulty reminded us of the Shamrock
Gully over in Ennerdale. The main differences in these two pitches are
that the Shamrock Gully pitch looks easier but proves to be harder,
also that it has less cave and more boulder. Neither pitch is suitable
for beginners.
By walking across to the foot of the lower part of Professor’s
Chimney--a name, by the way, given first to the easy exit on the right
of Pisgah--a pitch of some severity can be taken or left, as fancy
dictates. The platform above this pitch leads well into the chimney and
the climb again gets stiff. A direct ascent of the pinnacle is probably
feasible from this level, but the first thirty feet will need the
utmost enterprise on the part of the daring aspirant to fresh honours
in this well-explored region.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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